Throughout my train journey from Delhi to Chennai, the weather was overcast. I was apprehensive how I am going to take pictures in this weather.
The 34 hr journey was not too comfortable, thanks to the gentleman who was occupying the berth below mine. He preferred sleeping through the journey and I was stuck up on my upper berth. And I love to watch outside through a train window.
A bus from Chennai took me to Pondicherry. What I missed during train journey was made up by 3 Hr road journey. The 170 km ECR (East Coast Road), which connects Chennai to Pondicherry, is perfect for long drives splashed with beautiful landscapes. As soon as bus came out of Chennai sky cleared up and a bright sun came out. I thanked my stars (Sun as well!).
Though Britishers ruled India for more than 400 yrs, it’s the French who left a deeper stamp of their culture. Not only in terms of architecture and monuments but in almost all walk of life. French is spoken generally and taught in schools. Pondicherry boasts of a few French call centers. Streets have retained their names of French heroes and saints. Police still wears a red cap of French regime. Locals here play ‘Petanque’ a French game, played with balls of steel. Even annual tournaments are held. Shops are aplenty, selling French bread, buns, cookies and other French food.
USP of Pondicherry is its streets. Walking or cycling is the best way to explore this pulsating heritage. Cycles and mobikes are easily available on rentals. I spent most of my stay wandering on the streets without ever tiring. Every time I re-entered a street something new would catch my fancy. Sometimes it would be bold colours, French architecture, confluence of French and Tamil architecture, interesting doors and facades. Old Pondicherry can be divided into French, Tamil and Muslim Quarters. Each evident by its distinctive style.
Beaches of Pondicherry are peaceful and uncrowded. Beach Promenade is like Marine Drive of Pondicherry. On one side of Goubert Avenue (Beach Road) are heritage buildings of French era like Town Hall, Alliance Francaise, French War Memorial, old Light House etc. and on other side lays Beach Promenade with Gandhi Statue. Perfect place for evening strolls. This place becomes a picnic spot on weekend evenings when this 1.5 km stretch is closed for vehicular traffic. Visiting this place in early mornings is an enchanting experience as rising sun from Bay of Bengal bathes the old city in its pristine morning light. Serenity Beach and Paradise Beach are other major beaches. Got some fantastic pictures of cloud burst at Paradise Beach (8 km south of city, accessed by a boat from Chunambar Boating House).
Sri Aurobindo Ashram, established in 1926, is providing succor to spirituality-starved souls from all over the world, through their yoga and meditation programmes. They are also running their own schools, colleges, guest houses, boutiques, printing press, art gallery, beach resort etc. All of their establishments are painted in grey colour. In 1968 they founded Auroville, an international village, 10 km away from Pondicherry. Here about 2000 people from around the world live together like a single community. ‘Matre Mandir’, a meditation and prayer center is under construction, is a wonderful amalgamation of world-class architecture and aesthetics. World’s largest man made crystal is placed here.
It’s a very tourist friendly place. Though I was a first timer and didn’t know Tamil or Oriya, I had no problem whatsoever. However once when I bought a cigarette packet the shopkeeper returned me excess change. I gave back the money. He thought I wanted more cigarettes, so he handed me 2 cigarettes. I couldn’t explain to him what he was doing, so I pocketed them. Then there was this gentleman whom I photographed while he was making a sketch of Notre Dame de Anges Church. He is Pandyen, a night watchman. Though he was not much educated, he could speak English and French. Knew a lot about monuments and history of Pondicherry. As he had no family and any work during day he made sketching his hobby. Became sorts of friends. He would wait for me everyday at the same place same time. Even my eyes started searching for him whenever I passed through that way.
The Tourism Department’s slogan ‘Peaceful Pondicherry- Give time a break’ is perfectly appropriate.