This once-elegant grand cafe has seen better days although its faded charm still makes it undeniably atmospheric. These days it's over-run with tourists who enjoy people-watching from the sunny terrace. But if you prefer to hang out with the locals, head inside for a drink.

An excellent stop on a bar hop, this casual bar gets pretty packed with students and arts-media types. Have a drink al fresco (private parties are often held on the front terrace), or stay inside and get the bartenders working up some of their renowned cocktails. Order some bar snacks, hang out a while, then see where the night takes you.