The city is bounded on three sides by Mt Parnitha, Mt Pendeli and Mt Hymettos. Within Athens there are no less than eight hills, of which the Acropolis and Lykavittos are the most prominent. The hills provide a peaceful respite from the clamour of the city, and offer stunning views to the glistening waters of the Saronic Gulf, the city's boundary on the south side. The streets of Athens (clearly signposted in Greek and English) now meld imperceptibly into Piraeus, the city's port.

Just about everything of interest to the traveller is within a small area surrounding Plateia Syntagmatos (Syntagma Square). This area is bounded by the districts of Plaka to the south, Monastiraki to the west, Kolonaki to the east and Omonia to the north.

Plateia Syntagmatos is dominated by the old Royal Palace and is the beating heart of the business district, with luxury hotels, banks and airline offices. Plaka, nestled below the Acropolis, is the old Turkish quarter and virtually all that existed when Athens was declared the capital of independent Greece. Though Plaka is packed with tourists in high season, it's also one of the prettiest and most atmospheric areas of the city. Monastiraki is the market district and a fascinating part of town to wander. Psiri, nearby, is brimming with stylish cafes and bars and makes a great place for dinner or bar-hopping. Kolonaki, a classy residential area tucked in under Lykavittos Hill, is full of trendy boutiques, art galleries and cafes. Omonia, a seedy zone known for its pickpockets, drug addicts and prostitutes is a busy transport hub.

The sparkling new metro system has made getting around the centre of Athens relatively painless, and the extension of the whole network should ease the city's notorious traffic congestion. Athens also has an extensive bus and trolley (electric cable bus) network that was upgraded for the 2004 Olympics.