The Agora (market) was Athens' meeting place in ancient times, the focal point of administrative, commercial, political and social life. All roads led to this bustling and crowded place, where Socrates once expounded his philosophy and, later, where St Paul disputed daily in an attempt to win converts to Christianity.

The site was first developed in the 6th century BC. It was devastated by the Persians in 480 BC, but a new agora was built in its place almost immediately. It was flourishing by Pericles' time and continued to do so until AD 267, when it was destroyed by the Herulians, a Gothic tribe from Scandinavia.

A good place to begin an exploration of the site is in the reconstructed Stoa of Attalos, originally built between 159 and 138BC; its expensive shops were a popular stamping ground for moneyed Athenians. It houses the Agora Museum, where there's a model of the Agora upstairs along with a collection of finds from the site. The Temple of Hephaestus, on the western edge of the Agora, dates from 449BC and is the best-preserved Doric temple in Greece.

To the northeast of the temple are the foundations of the Stoa of Zeus Eleutherios, one of the places where Socrates spoke to the masses.

Near the southern entrance of the market is the Church of the Holy Apostles, which was built in the early 11th century to commemorate St Paul and his teachings. Have a look at the Byzantine frescoes inside.

The Acropolis is the most important ancient monument in the Western world. Crowned by the Parthenon, it stands sentinel over Athens, visible from around the city. Marble monuments gleam white in the midday sun and take on a honey hue at dusk, while at night they are brilliantly illuminated. A sudden glimpse of this magnificent sight will lift your spirits.

Pericles set about transforming the Acropolis into a city of temples after being informed by the Delphic oracle in 510 BC that it should become a province of the gods. Unsurpassed in grace and harmony, the Parthenon is the largest Doric temple ever completed in Greece, the only one built completely (apart from its wooden roof) of Pentelic marble.

The Parthenon had a dual purpose - to house the giant statue of Athena commissioned by Pericles and to serve as the treasury for the tribute money that had been moved from Delos. It was built on the site of four earlier temples, all dedicated to the worship of Athena.

Beside the Parthenon is the Erechtheion, immediately recognisable for its much-photographed Caryatids, the six maidens who take the place of columns. The Acropolis Museum houses a collection of sculptures and reliefs from the site.

This establishment was born in 1931, when Antonis Benakis turned his family house into a museum and presented it to Greece. It houses a sumptuous and eclectic collection from Europe and Asia, including Bronze Age finds from Mycenae and Thessaly, and ecclesiastical furniture brought from Asia Minor by refugees.

It's the oldest museum in Greece and ranks among its best. More than 20,000 items are on display chronologically over four levels, beginning with prehistory to the formation of the modern Greek state. It has an excellent Byzantine collection and a gallery focusing on the development of Hellenism during foreign domination. The spectrum of Greek cultural history is covered, including Karaghiozi shadow puppets, a stunning array of costumes, jewellery, textiles, and paintings, including early works by El Greco.

The antiquities collection includes Bronze-age finds from Mycenae and Thessaly and Cycladic pottery, while the Egyptian collection includes fayum Greco-Roman funerary portraits. Benaki's heart is immured inside the Museum's entrance, but the soul of Greece is well-enshrined in his gift to the country.

The historic neighbourhood under the Acropolis retains its charm despite being overrun by tourists in summer. Head beyond the tourist drag, however, and you'll find the Anafiotika quarter, one of the most picturesque and quiet pockets of the city. In this village-like labyrinth of quiet, narrow, windy streets, bougainvillea cascade over whitewashed Cycladic-style cube houses while bright pots of colour decorate the balconies and rooftops. Apart from the forever-reclining cats, washing hanging in the breeze is often the only evidence of habitation.

The houses were built by tradesmen from the small island of Anafi, brought in to build the king's palace during the renovation of Athens after Independence. The neighbourhood is still home to the descendants of these original Anafi stonemasons, although the population has also been supplemented by artists and intellectuals.

Plaka has many meticulously restored neoclassical houses, and more of the derelict old homes are being revived.

The 17th-century church of Agios Georgios (St George of the Rock) marks the southern border of Anafiotika, with the 1847 church of Agios Simeon situated to the north. The neoclassical building on the corner of Theorias and Klepsidra is the old university of Athens, now a museum.

The importance of theatre in the life of the Athenian city-state can be gauged from the dimensions of the enormous Theatre of Dionysos on the southeastern slope of the Acropolis. The first theatre on this site was a timber affair erected in the 6th century BC, where goatskin-clad performers sang and danced during the annual festival in Dionysos' honour.

During the golden age of the 5th century BC, dramas by Aeschylus, Sophocles and Aristophanes were commissioned for the Festival of Great Dionysia.

The theatre was reconstructed in stone and marble by Lycurgus between 342 and 326BC. The auditorium could seat 17,000; of an original 64 tiers of seats, about 20 tiers still survive. The 2nd-century reliefs at the rear of the stage depict the exploits of Dionysos.

The two hefty, hunched-up selini were worshippers of the mythical Selinos - he of the oversized phallus - who charged up mountains in lecherous pursuit of nymphs. He mentored Dionysos with whatever energy he had left over.

Greece's largest temple was begun by Peisistratos in the 6th century BC, but was abandoned for lack of funds. Other leaders had stabs at it before Hadrian completed the job in AD 131. It took over 700 years to build. The temple is impressive for the sheer size of its 104 Corinthian columns, of which 15 remain - the fallen column blew down in a gale in 1852.

Hadrian put a colossal gold and ivory statue of Zeus in the cella and, in typically immodest fashion, placed an equally large one of himself next to it.

Hadrian's Arch once linked a thoroughfare past the Lysikrates Monument along the Street of Tripods, where tripod trophies were dedicated to Dionysos by winners of ancient drama contests. Made of Pentelic marble, it was erected in honour of Hadrian in AD132, after the consecration of the temple.

The foundations of a small Doric temple dedicated to the ancient cult of Olympian Zeus (590-560BC) also lie on the site.

Despite all the pilfering by foreign archaeologists in the 19th century, this museum still has the world's best collection of Greek antiquities. The museum, which was damaged in the 1999 earthquake, was totally overhauled and reopened in 2004. The collection has been rearranged thematically and is beautifully presented with labels in English and Greek.

Straight ahead from the entrance foyer is the museum's tour de force, the collection of Mycenaean Antiquities, which is filled with gleaming gold. The star attraction is the Mask of Agamemnon.

The Neolithic Collection includes finds from Thessaly, as well as pottery, figurines and jewellery from Troy. The Cycladic Collection includes a lifesize Cycladic figurine from Amorgos (the largest ever found), while other rooms hold archaic, classical, late classical, Hellenistic and Roman period sculpture, bronze and pottery.

Other exquisite objects of antiquity include elaborately decorated mummy cases. Of particular note is the Thira Exhibition, consisting of spectacular Minoan frescoes unearthed at Akrotiri on the island of Santorini.

Other masterpieces include a marble statue from Delos of Aphrodite with Pan and Eros circa 100BC, and a bronze statue believed to be Poseidon or Zeus dated to 460BC. There is also an amusing sculpture of Aphrodite raising her sandal to ward off the frisky Pan.

This exceptional private museum houses the biggest private collection of Cycladic art in the world. The original building was custom-built for the collection, and the finds are beautifully displayed and well labelled. Although the exhibits cover all periods from Cycladic to Roman times, the emphasis is on the Cycladic era from 3000 BC to 2000 BC.

The 230 exhibits include the marble figurines with folded arms that inspired many 20th-century artists with their simplicity and purity of form. The Cycladic collection, on the 1st floor, includes life-size marble statues, tiny figurines and pottery from the civilisation that flourished in the Aegean during the Bronze Age.

The museum was extended and now spreads across the 19th-century mansion next door and an adjacent wing used for temporary exhibitions.

This boutique is all about drama and impact, from the long red velvet curtains to the designer garments on display. If you're after fashion with a twist, come on in. Men's and women's clothing for day and night are all there and ready to sweet-talk your credit card.

The hectic, colourful Athens Agora is the highlight of the Athinas market strip. It's a visual and gastronomic delight, with an amazing range of olives, spices, cheese and deli treats, plus somewhat surreal aisles of hanging carcasses and odd animal bits illuminated by endless rows of swinging light globes.

Serious Greek and European antiques dating from the 15th to the 19th centuries are on sale here, along with a good selection of silverware, clocks, paintings, icons and first edition prints of 19th century Athens. Expect to pay accordingly.

The Half Note is a stylish place with an international line-up playing classic jazz, folk and occasional Celtic music. It's the original and best venue in Athens for serious jazz. Book a table or take it casual and lean at the bar.

This quaint little bar is a Plaka landmark. It has a stunning backlit wall of coloured bottles, old wine barrels along another wall and a refreshingly old-fashioned feel. It's a spirits shop by day and a quiet spot for a drink by night. The tempting range of homemade brews should keep you entertained and entertaining.

The bouzoukia, commonly called skyladika (doghouses) because of the crooning singers, are a Greek institution. Pricey, smoky and a tad sleazy, they are nonetheless packed out most nights. If you're feeling game, try veteran Remeo+ but be warned - prices can be outrageously inflated if you sit at a table, with bottles of whisky sold at exorbitant prices.

A slice of Havana in Athens, this bar has regular live music with artists from around the world, salsa parties and flamenco shows. Pop a rose between your teeth, saddle up to a free tango lesson early in the evening, then cool down with the best margaritas in town.

More than a cafe-bar, this multifaceted venue promotes urban culture, new media and the visual arts and is popular with the alternative crowd. The cafe hosts DJ sets and screens arts videos while performances, exhibitions, film screenings and other events are held in various parts of this former paint factory.

Athens is over-endowed with two- and three-star hotels that have seemingly been built from the same concrete mould, but the Attalos is near the head of the field, partly by dint of its relaxing summer roof terrace.

Wedged rather inconspicuously into a row of hardware shops, the hotel has competent, friendly staff, free Internet access and rooms of good quality. They come with polished wood fittings, fridge, good firm mattresses, tiny bathrooms, and photos of famous sculptures, red-figure vases and Aegean seascapes. The front rooms all have balconies; the higher the quieter on this busy street. A few of the back rooms have balconies which are large, although the view of dusty concrete buildings is hardly Homeric. That's not such a problem here though; just head upstairs to the roof terrace and drink in the view of the Acropolis!

This rambling family-run hotel is as far from the concrete-box Athens standard as you could hope to find and boasts a location right at the entrance to Plaka. It's run in personable and personal fashion and has bags of character.

The main part of the hotel is an intriguing 19th-century Athenian townhouse with fabulous painted ceilings and ornate wallpaper. Needless to say, no two rooms are alike, but impossibly high ceilings, curious furniture, eucalyptus-fragrant balconies and quirky shapes all feature. Other rooms are in another section and are also characterful, if not quite as much. All rooms are nonsmoking. Throughout, there's a communal feel - a book-swap shelf, a shared 'pharmacie' cabinet, and stately old fridges in the corridors. There's a fiendishly complex series of prices, but it's always very good value. Breakfast is included, and is a sociable, tasty affair. If you prefer well loved to brand new, this is a great budget choice.

The landmark Electra Palace hotel is the most luxurious in the Plaka vicinity and one which is deservedly held in high esteem`, being particularly popular with North American visitors. It offers 5-star facilities and is the only Plaka hotel to offer private parking (for a fee).

The decor of the public areas offers a nod to the city's classical era, with a wide marbled lobby and various Hellenic motifs behind the fake neoclassical facade. The standard rooms are particularly spacious and, while the interior can feel a little heavy for a summer's day in Athens, they are very well equipped, with attractive marbled bathroom (and an exterior hand basin). The mattresses are firm, and all rooms have big windows and appealing artwork with a heavy Acropolis theme. Up a grade, the superior rooms and suites have balconies on which to luxuriate. The hotel has a restaurant, a small indoor pool and a jacuzzi with associated gym and massage treatments. In fact, the only thing it lacks is a bit of soul, but that is something that only appears with time - the hotel was completely rebuilt for the Olympics.

This quirky old taverna is an Athens' dining gem. Two doors (no signage) lead to a rustic cellar where there's no menu, just a few dishes that haven't changed in years. The house speciality is revythia (chickpeas) usually followed by grilled fish and washed down with wine from one of the barrels lining the wall. Erratic service is part of the appeal.

This delightful taverna is a little off the beaten track but it's worth seeking out. The menu has Cretan influences and an eclectic selection of regional Greek cuisine, including game and unusual dishes like the hearty and tender pork kotsi (shank). There are extra tables next to the church across the road, and a sister restaurant in Exarhia.

A tantalising 'live' menu, where waiters parade huge platters of the prepared (yet-to-be cooked) dishes of the day, makes for a truly unique dining experience at this stylish, tiny restaurant in an elegant neoclassical building. The food is deliciously imaginative, with some wicked desserts. Reservations essential.

This superb restaurant has been consistently voted Athens' best and the accolades are well deserved. Spondi offers imaginative French-Mediterranean cuisine with some Greek influences. There is a lovely garden terrace draped in bougainvillea in summer. The desserts are exquisite, the service faultless and wine list excellent.

This is one of the few remaining old-style tavernas in the Psiri neighbourhood, serving a range of tasty mayirefta (casserole or baked dishes), grills and reasonable house wine. It's cheap and cheerful with colourful quirky murals and interesting old pictures. There's courtyard dining in summer and an ambient basement with barrels along the wall.