Aurangzeb chose Rauza (Abode of Peace) on Khuldabad?s outskirts as the place where he wanted to be buried. Khuldabad itself is unpretentious about being the last resting place of an emperor. Perhaps that?s the way Aurangzeb would have liked it, for this most feared of the Mughal emperors saved money for this simple structure through the sale of skullcaps he stitched, and copies of the Koran he personally wrote. The showy additions came much later, built by the English and the Hyderabadi Nizams. Attar and gemstones are sold at tiny shops outside the tomb for those wanting a souvenir of their visit to Aurangzeb.

Paithan, formerly Pratishthan, is the most ancient city in Marathwada, once visited by Greek traders before the birth of Christ. The archaeologist in the tourist may be briefly excited by the traces of old Paithan surviving in the disintegrating walls that jostle for space amidst newer structures. Several shrines including those of Eknath Maharaja and Mukteshwar dot the city. The Eknath complex hugs the Godavari River. Check out the small tank where Eknath attained a watery samadhi in 1598. Paithan is also home to the most prized and valued of all Maharashtrian saris, whose motifs are derived from the carvings at the Ajanta Caves. Legend tells that once Parvati didn?t have a new sari for an apsara?s wedding. Overhearing this, Shiva asked his weavers to create special apparel for her. Instead of embellishing a silk ground with gold, they reversed the expression and wove gold ground with silk motifs. In old Paithani saris so perfect is the weave that it is practically impossible to make out the positive from the negative side of the textile. Check out ?The Paithani Design-Cum-Demonstration Centre? for readymade saris or place an order.

The drive to the Ajanta Caves itself is exciting, winding through ancient hills. The base of the caves is chaotic, but as you huff and puff up the steps, you know you have not sweated in vain. For a fleeting moment you can identify entirely with John Smith, the Englishman who rediscovered the caves in the 19th century. The stupendous sight curves in a superb arch of caves ? some stark holes on the rock face, others showing the intricacy of workmanship even from a distance. As you enter, the calm of the place descends on you. The same goes for Ellora, though it is more raucous, having always been a place of worship. The Buddhist art here is not as lush as at Ajanta, with the focus being on the Master himself. The Hindu motifs are riveting in their details. The extravagantly beautiful Kailasa Complex depicts scenes from the Ramayana and Mahabharata. Ellora also holds the distinction of being, in a sense, Shivaji?s native place. His grandfather Maloji Bhonsle settled in Verul Village, now Ellora, near Daulatabad Fort. It was in this village that Shivaji?s parents Shahji Bhonsle and Jijabai first met at the home of Jijabai?s father, Sardar Lakhuji Jadhava Rao. MTDC hosts the Ellora Festival of Classical Dance and Music at the caves in the third week of March, annually. Entry fee & timings Rs 10 (Indians), Rs 250 (foreigners); 8 am-6 pm Camera No cameras in the caves, shoot only outside. 1. Kailas Hotel facing ellora caves Tel 02437-244543, 244446 Fax 244467 Website hotelkailas.com Accommodation 25 cottages Tariff Rs 700-1,200; taxes extra Credit Cards Not accepted Facilities Room service, STD/ ISD 2. Traveller?s Lodge near ajanta Ajanta Caves Tel 02438-244226 Accommodation 4 rooms Tariff Rs 200-300 Credit Cards Not accepted Facilities Room service, STD MTDC?s Ellora Restaurant and Beer Bar (Tel: 02347-244441) serves Gujarati and Punjabi food from 8 am to 5 pm.