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Travel Guide » Asia » Aurangabad
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Aurangabad
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(Maharashtra)


At the Heart of History

The whole world comes to Aurangabad to inspect the fabulous heritage of the Buddhist caves at Ajanta and Ellora. Few, who come here and take one look at the dusty city itself, appreciate the Importance of Being Aurangabad.

A rough journey across the forbidding mountains on India's frontier was made 600 years ago by Zahiruddin Babar. This man was no ordinary mortal, but one who had descended from two ferocious Asian conquerors, Timur the Lame and Genghis Khan. The mighty dynasty Babar established would rule over India for centuries, bestowing it with a composite culture of which today we are the proud inheritors.

In Aurangabad lies buried the man who brought that dynasty to its end. Mohammed Aurangzeb, Babar's sixth descendant, was the most able commander and son of his father, Shah Jehan. But he was also his most wronged son, kept far away from the seat of empire in Delhi to battle the feisty Marathas in the heat of the Deccan Plateau. A dusty little village called Khirki was given to the prince to serve as his capital, later rechristened Aurangabad. Even after becoming Emperor, Aurangzeb would spend most of his life in the Deccan, fighting Shivaji's son Sambhaji, and the fiefs of Golconda, Ahmednagar and Bijapur. He succeeded in subduing the last three, but in the battles against the former lay the seeds of Mughal destruction.

The Maratha successors of Shivaji played a game that even the formidable Mughal Army just could not master. They swooped down every so often from the high reaches of the ghats, extracted their pound of Mughal flesh and just as quickly, disappeared again into the distant hills. Aurangzeb was flummoxed, but it was not in his nature to give up. He kept trying and, with his back turned on Delhi, his empire began to collapse. He died with the Marathas still occupying the ghats of Maharashtra, died trying to make it back to his beloved Aurangabad when he knew his end was near.

He only reached as far as Ahmednagar, where he breathed his last. For all purposes, historians agree, in that last breath lay the ashes of an empire.
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LONAR DEVI?S REALM
Lonar, a dusty spot on the map, appears unimpressive from a distance until your car rolls up over the tiny hillock and you spot the curve of the crater. Atop the rim, the sheer drop of its walls and the green tint of the thick, mineral-laden water in its hollow, is a truly awesome sight. You can?t help but be humbled by the thought of the sheer impact of the meteorite (a 20-lakh-ton, 60-km-wide mass travelling at about 90,000 km/ hr) that created this vast dent in the earth?s surface about 50,000 years ago. The explosive force of that moment still rocks the local imagination, and the crater is now venerated as a goddess ? Lonar Devi.

The locals slither and slide over the flimsy route down to the lake from the rim with a mountain goat?s confidence, but for those not used to trekking this could be a tough climb to negotiate. The people of Buldana believe that Lonar Devi does not approve of humans tampering on her surface, so the steps that have been carved into the walls to enable the less sturdy visitor to tramp down her sides, invariably crumble. Once down, you are cut off from the blazing sun by a canopy of leaves.

You can visit the many temples within the crater, which include the Ganapati, Narasimha and Renukadevi temples. The Gaimukh and Daityasudana temples here are in ruins but still functional. Though the temples look easily accessible, it would not be wise to take them all on in a single day. What seems like a short distance can be surprisingly tiring to cover since the surface you walk over is uneven and the lake?s shore, within the crater, is dangerously soft with its hidden wetness.

Shrouded in mystery
There are quite a few mysteries associated with the Lonar Crater. For instance, no one can figure out how it stays perennially full in dry Buldana. A stream feeds the crater but no outlet for the water has been located so far. Adding to the eeriness are the two distinct regions of the lake that never mix, with differing pH levels. Both support different types of flora and fauna. If you don?t believe it, carry some litmus paper along and check for yourself. So enamoured was Emperor Akbar by Lonar?s legends and minerals that he is said to have bathed only from soaps made with its green waters.

The crater, we were told, is supposed to be rich in wildlife, but we had no luck on our visit. We spotted just monkeys and birds, whose chattering and twittering only seemed to enhance the silence within the crater.

Avoid the downhill trek into the crater post-11 am, when the sun is resolutely up. It can be searingly hot and there?s barely a tree to shelter you on the slope itself. Don?t attempt going in the late afternoon because it?s tough getting up that slope after dark. Timing your trip season-wise would be wise ? high summers are unbearable even for the locals. Also, carry loads of water and sip continuously. Ideally, carry food down with you, since the climb back up is always tougher.
To get to Lonar (175 km) from Aurangabad, take the state highway to Jalna via Badnapur, then a district road to Lonar via Sindkhed Raja. You can also hire taxis to Lonar in Aurangabad.

Stay option
MTDC Tourist Complex
Mantha Road
Telefax 07260-221602

Accommodation 10 rooms Tariff Rs 350-1,200; taxes extra Credit Cards Not accepted Facilities Doctor-on-call, partial room service Mumbai Reservations

MTDC is right next to the crater. Their Tarangan Restaurant (Tel: 07260-221185) serves Chinese, Punjabi, and South Indian meals from 6 am to 11 pm.
Content Source: 
Outlook Traveller
Contributed by: 
Shameem Akthar and Lesley A Esteves
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