Pattadakkal was used as a second capital by the Chalukyas, mainly for the coronation of kings, like we do now in our Rashtrapati Bhavan. This World Heritage site was also used as an experimental ground for temple architecture. Our guide, this being his first assignment for the day, with immense vigour pointed out a phallus, rectangular at the top, installed inside the sanctum in one of the innumerable temples here and said either it is a special design or Muslim marauders cut off its top. The choice was left to the crowd. If they were not sympathetic to the Muslim angle, he would revert to design theory. Minutes later one of the crowd pointed at a huge lingam strewn on the ground. Then the tourists began to point out, ?there is one here, see, see, one there?. The guide, running out of reasons for finding finely chiselled phalluses of various sizes strewn all over, managed to say that there were dozens of such lingams thrown around. Different styles of architecture are on display here, like curvilinear spires, contrasting temples with square roofs and receding tiers. Historically, the Virupaksha and Mallikarjuna temples, built in the 8th century to commemorate the victory of Vikramaditya II over the Pallavas of Kanchi, are the most important here. Drive 5 km to Banashankari, 7 km to Shivayoga Mandire, 6 km to Mahakuta, then 12 km to Pattadakkal. On the way back, check out another Mallikarjuna Temple at Mahakuta, which also boasts natural springs, in which the brave can have a dip for the princely sum of Re 1. Entry fee Rs 10, foreigners Rs 250 Timings 6 am to 6 pm

For 200 years, Aihole was the capital of the Chalukyas. Temple architecture from the ?doodling? stage to more complex edifices dot Aihole, home to a staggering 125 temples, each intricately carved and rich in detail. The most important of these is the Durga Temple, at the heart of Aihole. Also check out the two-tiered Buddhist Temple, the Jain Meghuti Temple and the museum behind the Durga Temple. The archaeological department officials, and of course the guides, are tempted to compare these three temple towns to school and college. The fundamentals of carving and temple designs are at Aihole, described as primary school. The structures in Badami represent the high school stage and results of the final exam are in Pattadakkal. If you agree that some well run schools produce brighter students than colleges do, then Badami, with elaborate and innovative designs, is better than any college. Aihole is 11 km ahead of Pattadakkal via Chimmalgi Village. Buy your ticket to see all the sights in Aihole from the ASI Booking Counter at the Durga Temple Campus. Entry fee Rs 5, foreigners Rs 100 Timings 6 am to 6 pm