Bandhavgarh National Park is like a miniature painting small, but full of exquisite detail. It was formerly the game reserve of the Maharajas of Rewa, who subscribed to the bizarre notion that killing 109 tigers was a good omen. India's independence meant some respite for the poor tiger, with the taking over of these former princely states and conversion of such game reserves into national parks.

At the heart of the park is Bandhavgarh Hill, surrounded by valleys that end in meadows and swamps ideal undulating topography for a sanctuary. Not ideal for human habitation, evidently, as the abandoned Bandhavgarh Fort in the forest testifies. But that doesn't deter tiger lovers from descending on the park with one motive only: to get a glimpse of the King of the Indian Jungle.