Come morning and the chital and odd sambhar greet the eye. There are good motorable roads and tracks through the grounds. But soon you'll reach the point where the Gypsies bow out and a posse of elephants takes over. Bandhavgarh has the highest concentration of tigers in the country. No surprise then, that we soon saw the object of our quest behind some bamboo shoots. The full-grown male was a glorious sight as he emerged from the underbrush, lapped up the water and disappeared into the forest. Suddenly, he was back at the edge of the road, yards away from the first row of cars. Finding his path blocked he sat down right there and evenly contemplated the gallery of spectators. The next morning was incredible. There were three tigers waiting for us! From atop an elephant, we saw a cub digging into the half-eaten carcass of a wild boar. The mother tigress was stretched out fast asleep, while another cub lolled about.