Thailand's National Museum is the largest museum in Southeast Asia and an excellent place to learn about Thai art. All periods and styles are represented, from Dvaravati to Ratanakosin, and there's also a well-maintained collection of traditional musical instruments from Thailand, Laos, Cambodia and Indonesia.

Other permanent exhibits include ceramics, clothing and textiles, woodcarving, royal regalia, Chinese art and weaponry. In addition to the exhibition halls, the museum grounds contain the restored Buddhaisawan (Phutthaisawan) Chapel.

Inside the chapel (built in 1795) are some well-preserved original murals and one of the country's most revered Buddha images, Phra Phuttha Sihing. Legend claims the image came from Ceylon, but art historians attribute it to the 13th-century Sukhothai period.

The museum buildings were originally built in 1782 as the palace of Rama I's viceroy, Prince Wang Na. Rama V turned it into a museum in 1884. Be aware that the museum isn't air-conditioned and that English signage is sporadic. Taking a foreign-language tour will contribute greatly to your appreciation of Thailand's rich artistic history.

It's touristy, yet completely compelling. This snake farm, one of only a few world-wide, was established in 1923 to breed snakes for antivenoms. The snake feeding and milking shows are a nice sideline; get the snake handlers to show you Thailand's most venomous snakes such as the king cobra, banded krait and Russell's viper.

Ancient City (Meuang Boran), south of Bangkok, is billed as the largest open-air museum in the world. Over 100 of Thailand's most impressive monuments are rendered slightly less impressive in this 80-hectare (200-acre) collection of scale models. The grounds follow the basic shape of Thailand itself and the monuments are placed accordingly.

Visions of Las Vegas and its corny replicas of world treasures might spring to mind, but the Ancient City has architectural integrity and is a preservation site for classical buildings and art forms. It's a great place for long, undistracted bicycle rides (bikes can be rented from the admissions office), as it's usually quiet and never crowded. There's lots of open space for picnics.

The royal barges are long, fantastically ornamented boats used in ceremonial processions on the river. The largest is 50m (160ft) long and requires a 50-man rowing crew, plus seven umbrella bearers, two helmsmen and two navigators, a flagbearer, a rhythm-keeper and a chanter. The barges are kept in sheds on the Thonburi side of the river, next to Khlong Bangkok Noi.

Suphannahong, the king's personal barge, is the most important of the boats; made from a single piece of timber, it's the largest dugout in the world. The name means 'golden swan', and a huge swan's head has been carved into the bow. Lesser barges feature bows carved into other Hindu-Buddhist mythological shapes such as the naga (sea dragon) and the garuda (Vishnu's bird mount).

One of the best times to see the fleet in action on the river is during the royal kathîn ceremony at the end of phansâa (the Buddhist rains retreat, ending with an October or November new moon), when new robes are offered to the monastic contingent.

This is a great spot to visit for authentic Thai residential architecture and Southeast Asian art. Located at the end of an undistinguished soi next to Khlong Saen Saeb, the premises once belonged to the American silk entrepreneur Jim Thompson, who deserves most of the credit for the worldwide popularity of Thai silk.

Thompson was a New York architect who briefly served in the Office of Strategic Services (forerunner of the CIA) in Thailand during WWII. After the war he found New York too tame and moved to Bangkok. Thai silk caught his eye and he sent samples to fashion houses in Milan, London and Paris, building a steady worldwide clientele for a craft in danger of dying out.

Thompson collected parts of various derelict Thai homes in central Thailand and had them reassembled in the current location in 1959. Although for the most part they're assembled in typical Thai style, one striking departure from tradition is the way each wall has its exterior side facing the house's interior, thus exposing the wall's bracing system.

On display in the main house are Thompson's small but splendid Asian art collection and his personal belongings. A plush bar overlooking the canal offers cold drinks and occasional live jazz. The khlong at the end of the soi is one of Bangkok's liveliest.

Wat Phra Kaew (Temple of the Emerald Buddha) is an architectural wonder of gleaming, gilded chedi seemingly buoyed above the ground, polished orange-and-green roof tiles piercing the humid sky, mosaic-encrusted pillars and rich marble pediments.

It's quite easy to tour the grounds in a sort of daze, enamoured and confused by Thai Buddhism, and not realise until much later that you didn't see the eponymous figure. Here's why: the Emerald Buddha is only 66cm (26in) high and sits so far above worshippers in the main temple building that the gilded shrine is more striking than the small figure it cradles.

Adjoining Wat Phra Kaew is the Grand Palace (Phra Borom Maharatchawong), a former royal residence (the current monarch lives in Chitralada Palace). The exteriors of the four Grand Palace buildings are worth a swift perusal, however, for their royal bombast.

The largest of the palace buildings is the triple-winged Chakri Mahaprasat (Grand Palace Hall). Designed in 1882 by British architects, the exterior shows a peculiar blend of Italian Renaissance and traditional Thai architecture.

Enter the Wat Phra Kaew and Grand Palace complex through the third gate from the river pier.

Wat Mahathat is the most important centre of Buddhist learning in southeast Asia. Over the years, it has evolved into an informal community centre and is always bustling with visitors and monks. It holds meditation sessions and the English-speaking monks will help you feel more comfortable here than at any other temple in Bangkok.

This East-meets-West royal building was built by King Chulalongkorn, the first Thai monarch to visit Europe. Visions of his travels must still have been swimming in his head when he commissioned the throne hall, a stunning, intricate building which, despite its Western influences, has a distinctly Thai exterior.

Because this is royal property, visitors are required to cover up. Long pants or long skirts, shirts with sleeves and closed-toe footwear will be provided if you don't happen to have any in your rucksack.

Sky-high modern luxury with an emphasis on pampering and holistic therapy, all executed with impeccable Thai style. This place is so tall that your ears pop in the elevator as you whiz from the graceful lobby to the super-chic 61st floor restaurant.

Soothing Thai silks, deep earthy colours and warm, dark wood dominate the elegant suites at the Banyan Tree which have separate sleeping and living areas, high-tech business facilities and astounding views. Club guests are treated to extra privileges like a special lounge, massage treatments and priority spa use. At the very top, the huge 'spa suites' - a hit with honeymooners - are ultra-luxurious havens with in-suite spa treatment rooms complete with duo massage beds. You will be wooed with a selection of luxurious treatments plus complimentary spa canapes, herbal teas, exotic fruits and massage lessons. In-suite or out-suite, from the soothing essential oils that fill the whole establishment to its world-class Spa, it's all about sustaining an opulent conception of therapy. If martinis are more your idea of therapy, you can enjoy those too at the dizzying Vertigo lounge.

Modelled after the ancient capital of Sukhothai, this exquisite tribute to Thai architectural heritage is a stunning sanctuary for visitors. Serene Buddhas overlook inner ponds, ambient music meanders down hushed hallways, artefacts and orchids pose calmly in corners. Everywhere the light touches are a perfectly arranged scene of aesthetic tranquillity.

If you enjoy raising your voice and running your stick along the railings you may not be in your element here. The suites are magnificent in soothing silk tones of gunmetal, burnt orange and ochre, with hardwood floors and stone carvings. Mirrors are so clean you could walk through them and happily never come back. The tremendous bathrooms almost bring a tear to the eye - all gleaming porcelain with duo sinks (for suites), a huge tub and separate shower, royal products and fluffy robes. Windows allow Zen visions over stone carvings, lotus flowers and water features outside. The buildings are all traditional teak Thai houses and the pool is a giant emerald. In fact its all so beautifully designed and landscaped that you quickly forget that you are in the middle of busy Sathon. The place does not lend itself to pedestrian sightseeing, however.

Perched on the edge of Thonburi on the west bank of the Chao Phraya, the magnificent Peninsula Hotel peers over Bangkok. Unflappably distinguished and serene, this 39-storey hotel towers over the others in quality and is regularly designated best hotel in the world. It's an alternate universe of discreet excess and seamless aesthetic unity.

The Peninsula is flawless, from the three-tiered pool to the original Asian artworks. Well-heeled whispers and the scent of dignified and inexhaustible wealth drift through the vault-like, polished-marble lobby. It's tranquil, on the verge of tranquilising. The rooms are similarly soporific, exemplary havens of pale-green oriental wood furnishings and thick quilts. The suites are sumptuous. Curtains open automatically to reveal magnificent views of the city, kept at bay on the other side of the river. The double-vanity bathrooms boast separate showers, deep tubs, a television and - but of course - three telephones. Rooms average 46 sq m (over 500 sq ft) with separate sitting and sleeping areas. Guests can glide gently across the river on the complimentary barge to join the east bank.

A private hospital with English speaking reception personnel that specialises in being 'foreigner friendly'. It features familiar food outlets, room service, a cyber cafe and most importantly, a good reputation for its physicians.

This narrow bar, reminiscent of a railroad car, is a house of worship for blues and jazz. Real regulars, mainly journos and other word-workers, warm the booths here swapping news of their own bands. The blues bands lean more toward Stevie Ray Vaughn than the Mississippi Blind Boys and on Sunday nights, the locally famous Soi Dogs takes the pulpit.

The elevator delivers you to the 59th floor and you weave your way through dimly lit hallways, waiting attendants, and narrow sets of stairs, emerging to the roar of Bangkok traffic far, far below and a view that will literally take your breath away. Come dressed up at sunset and grab a coveted seat to the right of the bar for more impressive views.

You can turn your nose up at the Nana girlie-bar scene or curiosity can propel you to the fringes. Jool's offers a comfortable peek into this other world. Lots of sexpats take a breather here for a good romp with some beer buddies. The drunkest always gets to sit in the captain's chair while others gather around the u-shaped bar for cross-fire conversations.

A stylish open-air theatre, Patravadi is the brainchild of Patravadi Mejudhon, a famous Thai actress and playwright. The dance troupe performance is a blend of traditional Thai dance and modern choreography, music and costume. This is Bangkok's leading modern dance venue and the primary venue for the Bangkok International Fringe Festival, held in April/May.

The ancient art of lákhon lék (Thai puppetry) was rescued by the late Sakorn Yangkhiawsod, more popularly known as Joe Louis, in 1985. Today his children carry on the tradition. Modelled after the characters in the epics Ramayana and Phra Aphaimani, his puppet creations are controlled by three puppeteers and can strike many human poses.

In 2004 Princess Galyani Vadhana gave the theatre its new name, Natayasala.

This mega-mall gobbled up the old Siam Intercontinental gardens and threw up a gleaming glass complex that has struck competitive fear into the existing malls. With a 15-million-baht price tag, Siam Paragon epitomizes the city's fanaticism for the new, the excessive, and absurd slogans. Check out the audacious aquarium and the Siam Opera Theatre.

To properly outfit a modern bohemian, you'd need to head up to arty Chiang Mai. Luckily, this Chiang Mai-based store has a Bangkok satellite selling its home-spun chic purses, high-quality woven cotton clothing and household wares. The earnest stuffed animals would make a nice gift for the young ones. There is a branch in Siam Discovery Center (3rd floor).

Representing Thailand's main silk-producing regions, particularly northern Thailand, this charming store has a beautiful selection of wall hangings and table runners. You'll also find other high quality souvenirs and interesting postcards not widely available elsewhere.

Marked by a sign that reads 'Alloy' (meaning 'delicious'), this was one of Bangkok's first Thai non-meat restaurants, inspired by the strict diet of the ex-governor of Bangkok, Chamlong Srimuang. It's still one of the best, with none of the oil spills that mar much of the city's vegetarian cuisine. Squeezing in beside the TV and a box of palm oil is well worth it.

A legend in expat circles, Royal India prepares honest dishes from northern India, heavily influenced by Moghul or Persian flavours and spices. The restaurant has an in-the-know speakeasy quality. At lunchtime tables are shared between parties and travellers from different continents and generations sharing their globetrotting resumes.

Fried chicken tastes good in any language, but Soi Polo's chicken could tar and feather the colonel and his kin. Crispy on the outside, moist and meaty inside and sprinkled with fried garlic bits - it is easy to see why this is considered the best kài thâwt (fried chicken) in town. Don't forget to order khâo nǐaw (sticky rice).

This plain Jane is filled with fluorescent lighting and cheap furniture but local Thai families and workmates crowd in for plates of yummy everyday Thai dishes at little more than street prices. Once you find a few favourites, pull up a chair alongside a taxi driver at one of the working-class canteens set up under a tree.

On a steamy day, catch a breeze at this open-air riverside restaurant. Ceiling fans rotate relentlessly as waiters scurry across the wooden floorboards (big gaps reveal the river beneath). The decor has the charm of a school cafeteria, adding anecdotal evidence to the Thai conviction that good food shouldn't be sullied by the Western concept of ambience.