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Travel Guide » Asia » Bekal Fort
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Bekal Fort
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(Kerala)


Beachcombers Bonanza

This is the place where those oft-repeated clich's about God's Own Country come true. Greenery so lush it almost hurts the eye. A sea complacent in its power. Thick swathes of rivers. A fort of laterite stone that holds within it so much romance, you catch your breath. People who are friendly, hospitable and wonder of wonders, actually do not stare you to death as their counterparts do in other parts of the same state.
You remember Bekal Fort, don't you That's the spot so soulfully captured in a monsoon blue-grey wash by Mani Ratnam in the film Bombay, the ultimate trysting place where the hero Arvind Swamy used to meet the burqa-clad heroine, Manisha Koirala. The 300-year-old circular structure of red laterite, tinged black by the battering elements, stands on a 35-acre headland, 130 ft above sea level, the wind-lashed icy ocean ceaselessly mounting a barrage far below. Controlled by powers as varied as the Vijayanagar kings, Tipu Sultan and the British, now the fort seems controlled by the elements. Ramparts, peep-holes, beautifully built-up steps leading to a cove, all make for the ideal spot to picnic, to navel-gaze, to chill out, to shoot a movie, to read a book. Oh, and to catch a brilliantly dramatic crimson-and-gold setting of the sun, a truly unforgettable experience... I did warn you about those clich's!
Bekal Fort is the cherry atop the pastry. All around lie miles and miles of palm groves, a long stretch of beachfront, pristine sands unspoilt by people, plastic and bottles. Long may it remain so.
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To See & Do

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Within the fort
  On the golden grassy knolls of the fort sit the Magazine, steps leading to an Observation Tower and a score of picturesque peepholes. There is an ancient Anjaneya Temple, a newly renovated mosque, a sea bastion (a big crowd puller) and several underground passages that invite your curiosity. Bekal today still bears traces of being a sleepy little Kasargode village, flanked by the forest-covered Western Ghats in the east and the Arabian Sea in the west, with the Talapadi and Trikaripur rivers flowing in the vicinity. But not for much longer, not if the Bekal Resorts Development Corporation (BRDC) has its way. Plans are afoot to make Bekal one major resort. Sixteen resorts and hotels (and we are talking five- and seven-star luxury here) are to come up in idyllic spots that have been identified and acquired by the BRDC. Keeping eco-tourism firmly in mind, the Corporation has planned water management and waste disposal methods, ancillary area development, a road network (about 30 roads have already been constructed) and eventually, a golf course, convention centre, swimming pool and clubhouse. It ought to be on-stream by 2005.

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Bekal Fort Beach
  To one side of the imposing fort lies the shallow beach, quite the lotus-eater?s delight, over-run as it is with shells of all sizes and colours, vast colonies of bashful crabs and little else. Bring your own food and drink though, because the little peti kada (tea stall) stocks just the bare rudimentaries of refreshment. Bekal Hole Aqua Park This is a small pier with pedal boats and water cycles on offer, with the estuary in the background. A scenic spot.

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Kappil Beach
  A mere 10-minute drive from the fort, and another beachcombing discovery, Kappil is a secluded beach, partially overrun with a thick green creeper that throws up mauve flowers, shallow groves of casuarinas and not a human around, hurrah! The Kodi Cliff to one side of this beach is worth the (not arduous) climb to take in a great view of the sea. Chandragiri Fort The 17th century fort, 4 km from Bekal, was built by Sivappa Naik and is currently under repair. But even now, if you care to scramble up the steep laterite steps, you get a great view: dense forests of palm groves to one side, the serene Chandragiri to the other and the Arabian Sea beyond. Once renovations are complete, this fort will make a great picnic spot, another great locale for sunset watchers. Cruises on the river are on the anvil, courtesy the Bekal Resorts Development Corporation.

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Houseboat cruises
  The Bekal Resorts Development Corporation runs a couple of houseboats on the Tejaswini River, from Kottapuram in Nileswar to Kowal Kadapuram in Valiyaparamba. En route past nine isles, you take in verdant greenery and Chinese fishing nets, you get to swim, laze about, stay a night or two or more, aboard the 2-bedroom and single bedroom boats... all at costs considerably less than what you would pay further down south of the state. Sunset and short cruises cost around Rs 2,500 for 21/2 hours. The houseboats are popular floating conference venues; ayurvedic massages are on offer, too. For bookings, contact the Bekal Resorts Development Corporation (Tel: 04994-220445, 9447010445). Tariff ranges from Rs 3,500-6,000 for a day cruise to a 24-hr cruise.

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Nileswaram
  Nileswaram, once the cultural centre of the whole district, is 12 km from Bekal. The town is now a dusty, tired one with a clutch of decrepit buildings which are the major and minor Nileswaram palaces. The main Nileswaram Palace is today the folklore centre of the Archaeology Department. For those who would conceive of grand palaces, this sprawl of red-tiled houses could come as a bit of an anticlimax. To the experienced eye however, the solid teak roof beams, the magnificent wooden pillars, the shining red stone floors, the naalukettus all make a poignant case for the glories of bygone age. And the myriad little shrines dotted across Nileswaram, all lit up in the gloaming, makes for a moving sight, whichever god you pray to.

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Hosdurg Fort and Beach
  Part of a chain of forts built by Somashekhara Naik of the Ikeri Dynasty, now this fortress is nothing but rubble and half a rampart. Don?t waste any time here. The Nityanandashram close by, a meditation centre with 45 caves founded by Swami Nityananda, is the main attraction. But Hosdurg Beach, a long strip running alongside the town, is the real find of the trip. Miles of simply stunning tawny sands, casuarina groves and the quaintest cottages with thatched roofs that look like transplants from the English shires! Take food and drink and go redefine the concept of chilling out. Hosdurg-Kanhangad has some good stay options from where you can base your visits to Bekal.

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Valiyaparamba Backwaters
  About 4 km from Nileswaram, the Valiyaparamba Backwaters are a very scenic spot, with numerous little islands, narrow strips of beaches, densely packed groves of palm and arecanut, and fed by four swiftly flowing rivers. As yet it is undeveloped but plans are afoot for boat cruises and then, it won?t take a fortune-teller to forecast that this will be the next best thing after the fort. Right now, if you want to cruise the backwaters, you need to hop on the local ferry service that plies every half-hour.

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Malik Deenar Mosque
  This part of Malabar is a major centre for Islam on the western coast and the Malik Deenar Mosque in Kasargode is a major one, set on the lip of a hill overlooking the sea. If the surroundings are lovely, the old mosque which houses the dargah of Maulvi Malik Ibn Deenar, is no less, with its teak roof beams and chandeliers.
Content Source: 
Outlook Traveller
Contributed by: 
Sheila Kumar
  
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