This is everything a jazz club should be - intimate, loud and usually packed. The talent on display is invariably top-class and, despite the cosy tables, everyone is standing by the end of the evening. On Monday the local jazz cats play; go on Saturday for the late-night jam session.

Old-fashioned Berlin pubs have their own tradition of hospitality - beer, schnapps and the Berliner humour all served up in rustic, smoke-filled surroundings. This ancient example of the species (first lager poured in 1877) bottles its own flavoured schnapps and fruit wines on the premises.

By day, the opulent baroque salon in front - complete with plump velvet sofas, gold-leaf mirrors and chandeliers - caters to the cafe crowd. After dark, it morphs into an eats-and-lounge act before turning into a chic club hosting a variety of retro and electro nights with occasional 'extras' such as go-go dancers. Dress on the smarter side of casual.

Spiritual home to some of Berlin's most discerning clubbers - the DJs playing here are among the best in their field, whether it's breakbeat, down-tempo or some other strand of electronica. Live concerts often take place here on weekdays and it's now a key address for techno, hosting 'Tresor in exile' nights while the legendary club looks for a new venue.

Berlin's oldest beer garden is also one of the prettiest. It's the perfect spot for quaffing away beneath a canopy of mature chestnut trees. The complex includes a small stage operated by the Volksbühne (People's Theatre), a cocktail bar, a traditional restaurant serving updated German fare, and the popular Bastard club.