The ancient stone temple of Amruteshwar is in Ratanwadi, connected by what can only be described as a dirt road to Bhandardara. Jeeps and ST buses ply this route but it?s a rough ride. The ferry across Bhandardara Lake to Ratanwadi is a quicker and far more pleasant alternative (at Rs 30-35 per head approx) ? if it?s operational. Be prepared for some adventure though if the boat?s engine packs up while you are at the far end of the lake. The village of Ratanwadi is a 20-min walk away from where the ferry drops you off. Amruteshwar Temple dates back to the 11th century AD, and contains a Shivaling that is believed to be swayambhu (naturally formed, not made by human hand). Nearby a few steps lead down to a pond or tank called Vishnu Teerth. The bigger attraction of Ratanwadi for many, though, is the trek up to the immense 400-year-old Ratangad Fort that sits astride the hill overlooking Ratanwadi and Bhandardara Lake. Ratangad (the name means jewel fort) was captured by Shivaji and was among his most favoured forts. The path up the hill from Ratanwadi is more or less well marked, and you?ll cross the Pravara River a couple of times on your way up. There?s good birdwatching all along the way, and as you go higher, the famous Khutta Pinnacle on the twin-humped hill of Ratangad will come into view. Below one of the humps is a wind-blasted hole right through the mountain. The path leads to some caves on the hillside. Nearby are a few iron ladders built on the rock-face to help your climb, which, up the ladders, is pretty steep. The good thing is there?s thick jungle all around to protect you from the sun. When you reach the fort, you?ll be glad you took the trouble. The view of the plains of the Konkan from here is unmatched, and you can get some exclusive shots of Mt Kalsubai and the lake in the foreground. Explore the three doorways to Ratangad ? the Ganesh, Tryambak and Hanuman darwazas, the small temple of Ratandevi and the Ranicha Huda, or Queen?s Palace, near the Hanuman Darwaza. Retrace your steps to get back to Bhandardara. Warning: The trek up is moderately challenging, and shouldn?t be attempted alone by first-time climbers. Ferry timings are irregular so check with the officials at Wilson Dam for details and make sure of the return journey before you leave.