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Travel Guide » Asia » Bikaner
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Bikaner
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(Rajasthan)


Sandstone Splendour

When a scion of the house of Jodhpur decided to strike out on his own, it was at Bikaner that he founded his kingdom. The stark desert held little wealth, but the caravan routes it commanded provided sufficient revenues. In times to come, the rulers of Bikaner befriended the rulers of Delhi the Mughals and later the British and were honoured with titles and a rich treasury. The house of Jodhas also enjoyed tremendous power and prestige among its peers in the princely Rajput states.
That prestige came from heading Mughal and British armies in the Deccan and Europe respectively, where they proved their courage and loyalty to the rulers of the day. Maharaja Ganga Singh of Bikaner came to be known as one of Indias principal rulers and statesmen. His shikar-diplomacy, conducted at his hunting lodge at Gajner, won him many concessions from the British. Among them was the chance to build his own railway and start the ambitious Ganga Canal that transformed the parched desert landscape, ensuring that this small desert town would continue to exert considerable influence on the fortunes of Rajasthan for a long time to come.
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To See & Do
At the heart of Bikaner is its fort, Junagarh, around whose battlements the town has grown. The fort is as lavish in its interiors as it is huge. The great courtyards and the painted apartments of Anup Mahal, Karan Mahal and Phool Mahal within the fort are particularly stunning. Maharaja Ganga Singh, who had the fort's Durbar Hall built at the turn of the last century, using carved wood, is also responsible for the building of Lallgarh, the palace that was to become the residence of the royal family. Built entirely of red sandstone and designed by the British architect Sir Swinton Jacob, it has been described as the finest example of Rajput architecture. Today, the sprawling Lallgarh has multiple uses besides housing members of the royal clan, two of its wings are run as palace hotels.

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Museums
  For a small town, Bikaner is not short of museums, the principal one being located at Junagarh Fort and housing a collection that includes a World War I fighter aircraft. Recently, a separate section has been commissioned for royal robes and dresses. Within Lallgarh, the visitor will find the Sadul Singh Museum, consisting chiefly of old photographs, paintings and more memorabilia. Then there is the Golden Jubilee Museum, arguably the best place to see, under one roof, everything from paintings by the German artist Mueller to armour, coins, pottery, carpets and rare sculptures from the Gupta and Kushan periods, as well as remnants from pre-Harappan archaeological finds.
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Outlook Traveller
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Kishore Singh
  
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