Although Greater Buenos Aires has swollen to 13 million people, most tourists stick to the Capital Federal, which is home to a mere three million porteños (locals) and is divided into 48 barrios (neighbourhoods). Once you get your head around the barrios and sub-neighbourhoods that complicate the city's layout, Buenos Aires becomes easier to navigate. The Microcentro, or downtown area, includes the shopping and entertainment precincts along the Avenidas of Corrientes, Córdoba and Santa Fe, and the pedestrian-only streets of Florida and Lavalle. The Avenida 9 de Julio is an unmistakable point of reference; its 16 lanes of traffic run from San Telmo in the south to Retiro up north, with a sky-piercing white obelisk at its centre. The dockside barrio of Puerto Madero runs north-south along the Río de la Plata and is very pedestrian friendly.

At the eastern end of Avenida de Mayo, one of the Microcentro's main east-west boulevards is the Plaza de Mayo. It attracts a bountiful blend of tourists, students and political activists, and is surrounded by many important buildings, including the famous Presidential Palace (Casa Rosada) and main cathedral. South of Microcentro are the faded architecture and cobbled streets of colonial San Telmo, home of Buenos Aires' sultry tango, and La Boca, the tough port barrio and colourful working class heart of Buenos Aires. Uptown is the ritzy enclave of Recoleta, while the tree-lined Palermo has parks aplenty and Buenos Aires' hottest bars and ethnic eats.

Most tourist magnets around Buenos Aires are either within walking distance from one another or within a short distance of public transport. Taxis are reasonably priced for shorter cross-city journeys.

Buenos Aires' rail network services the suburbs surrounding the city area, while the Subte (Underground) is South America's oldest subway and is still a quick, efficient and easy way to get around. Buses also ply the streets of Buenos Aires but the system is huge and complex and takes a while to get to grips with, so its not great for short-stayers.