One of Buenos Aires' prime tourist attractions, the Cementerio de la Recoleta sits in the plushest of neighbourhoods, ritzy Recoleta. High walls surround this necropolis where, in death as in life, generations of Argentina's elite rest in ornate splendor.

It's fascinating to wander around and explore this extensive mini-city of lofty statues, detailed marble facades and earthy-smelling sarcophagi, all the while reading family names of those with enough social points to make it in here. Follow the crowds and you'll find Evita's grave. Among marble angels and black granite tombs you'll find the sites of some of Argentina's most famous - and infamous - historical figures: 19th-century educator and president Domingo Sarmiento, caudillo (strongman) Juan Facundo Quiroga (occupying the cemetery's oldest tomb), politician Carlos de Alvear, Radical party leader Leandro Além, twice president Hipólito Yrigoyen, boxing great Angel Firpo, independence hero William Brown and writer Victoria Ocampos.

Opened in 1908, the Teatro Colón is truly a world-class theatre and the jewel in Argentina's arts crown. Guided visits around the theatre's basement workshops, rehearsal rooms, stage and seating areas highlight the majesty and mechanics behind the spectacular performances. Catch one if you can.

The only facility of its kind in the country, the seven-storey Colón is used for opera, ballet and classical music, with seating for 2500 spectators and standing room for another thousand culture-craving porteños.

Whether saint or tyrant (a question posed by the museum's first display), this is all about adoration for Eva (Evita) Perón. It's a highly educational walking tour through her life, with touches like video montages set to tango electrónica - a nice break after admiring all her fabulous gowns. Information is available in English.

Casa Rosada is the pink presidential palace with the famous balcony where vibrant Evita energised adoring crowds during her heyday in the 1940s. Around the southern side of the building is Museo de la Casa Rosada, whose most interesting feature is the catacombs of the Fuerte Viejo, an 18th-century colonial ruin.

The remodelled 18th-century Museo del Cabildo is all that's left of the colonial arches that once surrounded Plaza de Mayo. Nearby, the neoclassical Catedral Metropolitana (finished in 1827) contains the tomb of liberator José de San Martín, Argentina's most venerated historical figure.

Fuel up on a plate of the house sushi (which will also clear you of Asia's cover charge) before hitting the packed dance floor; the mix of eclectic dance music, sweaty bodies and scantily clad female show dancers have a way of keeping you cheering and dancing until the sun comes up. Best on Thursdays.

On Tuesdays this popular downtown spot offers up the best drum & bass in town, but weekends rock just as hard. Multi-floors, chill-out spaces and eclectic decor add to the vibe. The beats get faster as the night wears on.

Check your cool at the door, grab a board game off the shelf and join the wackiness. With corrugated tin slapped on the walls, crystal chandeliers, leopard-print mannequins, multicolored pots and pans and over a hundred mismatched tables, the vibe is pure fun. The effect of house music on the revelry is perfect.

Buenos Aires' definitive parrilla serves the city's most prized steaks, perfectly aged and cut from the purebred cows that are fattened up on Cabaña Las Lilas' private ranch. The 800g, 3in-thick, baby-beef steak is as famous as the wine list, and prices are the highest in town.

A bit more traditional than most Palermo Viejo eateries, this large modern restaurant serves an exceptional range of pastas, salads and - most importantly for meat-lovers - awesome parrilla. Try the house specialty, the lomo (tenderloin).

El Desnivel is packed with tourists, but equally popular with locals. So join in by nudging up to the front-door grill for a choripan (sausage sandwich) or by ordering superb grilled meats from the tables. Popularity has driven prices up, but it's still worth a visit. The vaćio (flank steak) is nice and tender - ask for it bien jugoso (rare) if you dare.