Flecker Botanic Gardens specialises in cycads, heliconias, gingers and palms, and has a stunning collection of natives and exotics. There are informative tours and self-guided walking trails such as the Gondawan Evolution Trail.

Owned and run by Aborigines, the Tjapukai Cultural Park is a thoroughly enjoyable experience. It features the Creation legend, told using giant holograms; a corroboree; and boomerang- and spear-throwing demonstrations. The retail gallery sells authentic didgeridoos.

Cairns Regional Gallery, in a gorgeous heritage building, is worth a wander. Exhibitions reflect the consciousness of the region, with an emphasis on indigenous art. The permanent collection includes works by Brett Whiteley, Russell Drysdale and Donald Friend.

Near the botanical gardens is the entrance to the Mt Whitfield Conservation Park, the last remnant of Cairns rainforest and once home to a small cassowary population. The Red Arrow Trail (one hour) and the Blue Arrow Trail (3.5 hours) both offer good views over the city and coast.

The undisputed highlight of the Cairns Foreshore Promenade is the 4800 sqm saltwater swimming lagoon. Like a big eye candy convention, bodies accumulate here to cool off and bronze up. Fitness enthusiasts blade, cycle or just walk the 3km Esplanade Walking Trail, and locals and travellers meander up and down The Esplanade visiting shops and restaurants.

Attached to the backpackers, this colossal bar is fast becoming the most popular joint in town. The chic interior is very Soho 'daahling' and the yawning deck outside, littered with tables, is a treat. Most nights it's an absolute drinking, dancing, mingling bonanza that includes, the world's shortest bungy, the ubiquitous drink specials and a 'foam' party.

Famed for one of the best sound systems around, this spot, right on the Cairns Esplanade, features resident DJs, as well as touring local and national turntableists. Fall into the leather lounge, or prop up one of the bars.

The high-backed booths and dark polished wood scream elegance, but the amicable atmosphere in this Irish-style pub does indeed verge on sheer Shenannigans as the night draws on. Another of Cairn's great drinking holes, this one comes with good ales, a huge beer garden and an outside bistro - plus there's live music and DJs from Thursday to Saturday.

For 10 months, between April 2005 and Feb 2006 the hostel, located upstairs from the heritage-listed pub, closed for renovations. After reopening again in late Feb, the 90-year-old building has never looked so good.

There's love in the food at Lillipad. Breakfasts are excellent value: the Full Monty is a mammoth fry-up with sausages, bacon, eggs, tomatoes and mushrooms on toast. For something less artery-hardening, the muesli with fresh tropical fruit is delicious. There are also great salads, panini and plenty of choices for the non-carnivorous.

Here you can devour native fauna - roo, emu and crocodile - and feast on Australian bush treats - lemon myrtle, quandong (native peach) and wattle seed. Local produce is stylishly interpreted and the result is an innovative menu. Try the Aussie game platter and the Wattle seed Pavlova.

Pier is proof that for popularity - just add water. People love to watch their boutique beer moving through the perspex pipe overhead whilst the menu features a handful of mains, such as salmon papaya salad, a few pastas, starters and nibbles. Wood-fired pizzas are available until late, the desserts are suitably decadent and the broad outdoor deck beckons.