It takes all of two hours to move from Happening Goa to Hidden Goa. Head out from Margao to Canacona and its closest neighbour, Quepem, to know that much to your relief, Goa still has beaches that aren't drowned in a sea of tourist attractions and dja vu. Where the swagger of the tourist is replaced by the tolerance of the traveller. It is this virgin quality that has attracted backpacking firangs tired of the predictable Colvas and Calangutes to the green-carpeted hills of Quepem and Canacona. When you tire of rave parties, chattering cruises and beach bums, come here to explore the unknown. You'll find a virgin coast, off-the-beaten-track destinations and unusual festivals.

Canacona and Quepem have clung on to their rusticity in parts of Quepem, the village pigs still clean the toilets. And on the beaches of Canacona, instead of bright lights advertising dolphin-spotting tours, hand-painted boards tell of local fishermen who convert their boats into taxis-on-the-sea. Most of the time, the only company are creatures high up in the air, and dolphins in the waters of the Arabian.

Even the hotels here are just shacks on stilts or simple homes opened up to travellers. This homely atmosphere amidst so much uncharted beauty is the USP of Quepem and Canacona. Luxury hotels tried to ram their way in but many bit the dust in the face of local opposition. A half-finished concrete ruin overrun by monkeys at the end of Agonda Beach stands in silent testimony to this folly.