Dalhousie is probably the only hill station that did not gain the kind of affection Shimla or Darjeeling did from the rest of India. In fact, its abandoned remains, disowned by Lahore due to Partition, have unflatteringly been labelled Dull and Lousy. Yet, a walk around its three malls and wooded loops is anything but dull. It has, for instance, as many as five functioning churches, British-style country houses now converted into hotels, a cemetery spread over nine terraces, a beer brewery (now in ruins) and several colourful rock frescoes painted by the first flood of Tibetan migr's.
For most visitors who hop into Dalhousie, the hill station doesn't stretch beyond Gandhi Chowk (earlier the GPO), Subhash Chowk (originally Charing Cross) and a day trip to Kala Tope. Which is just as well, since it has left the rest of the hill station relatively unexplored. In fact, it is still one of those places where an intrepid traveller can, like Rabindranath Tagore in 1873 and Subhash Chandra Bose in 1937, make his own private discovery.