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Dharamsala
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(Himachal Pradesh)


Little England meets little Tibet

In the mid-19th century, winds of change were rushing towards Dharamsala, threatening to shatter its quiet calm forever. The British Viceroy at the time, Lord Elgin, had fallen in love with this pretty town in the Kangra Valley. Plans were afoot to transform Dharamsala into the summer capital of the Indian sub-continent. But it was not to be. Elgin died and was buried in the graveyard of the Church of St John in the Wilderness nearby and calm descended on the town again.

History doesn't tell us whether the Kangra Valley was shattered at the loss of potential power and prestige, or grateful to be spared the fate of Shimla, which became the summer capital instead. But what the citizens of Dharamsala didn't know yet was that a boy born to a peasant family in another land would one day indeed put their town on the world map. That boy's name was Lhamo Dhondrub, but he is known all over the world as the 14th Dalai Lama, Tenzin Gyatso. He came to India in the 1960s, exiled from the country of his birth and settled finally in the former British cantonment of McLeodganj in Upper Dharamsala. The entire Tibetan Buddhist faith has its focus in the person of the Dalai Lama. Thousands of people therefore beat a path to wherever the Dalai Lama may be, and he has been in McLeodganj for the last four decades.

So, perhaps, fame was in Dharamsala's kismat after all.
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 Dharamsala
Bhagsu, Dharamkot  
(14 km)

Think river. Think temple. Think cascade. Think Bhagsu. Just 2 km from the hubbub of McLeodganj, Bhagsu is a quiet, quiet settlement. Especially if you opt to stay in a luxury tent next to the cheery little Bhagsu River. Crispy cold nights, slumber beneath a blanket of stars. Waking up to clear, cool mornings in the shadow of the Dhauladhar. A walk on the wild side, and all a mile from civilisation. This tiny settlement, 5,800 ft above sea level, is the seat of an ancient temple, the Bhagsunag, and local lore would put its age at 10,000 years. Demon king, powerful snake god and a most romantic quest for water are the points of the mythological triangle to which the hallowed temple owes its existence. Suffice it to know that the village is named after the demon Bhagsu, that a great battle was fought here between demon and snake, and that the one who lost emerged victor. You have your clues. The rest is conveniently on a plaque at the temple. Go there yourself, and fill in the missing details of this tale. It?s a story worth knowing, and telling Bhagsu?s caught the attention of the tourism industry, all right, and is fast filling up with ugly concrete hotels, serving as an extension to accommodation options in nearby McLeodganj. But, there?s time yet. Bhagsu is still sleepy, and near the river it?s as quiet as it gets. Bhagsu is fast becoming a hotel town. And, truth be told, it won?t be long before this sleepy hamlet becomes a scramble of concrete. Down in the valley, by the riverside, the tented campsite of Banjara Camp (Tel: 09817066806; Tariff: Rs 2,000-2,400) is a fine base to discover Bhagsu?s charms. It has 10 tents with attached loos and the price includes all meals, evening campfire and a one-day trek with an experienced guide. On popular demand, three cottages are being added this season. 1,600) located on the main road. It has 23 rooms, a multi-cuisine restaurant, TV, terrace garden, beer bar and cocktail lounge. Hotel Triund (Tel: 221122; Tariff: Rs 600-1,000) too is located on the main road. It has 16 rooms, a multi-cuisine restaurant, car parking and organises bonfires. If Bhagsu is charming and laid-back, tranquil Dharamkot, 2 km from Bhagsu, is an oasis of meditative calm. Little wonder then that several meditation centres have mushroomed in its lush woods. Try the Vipassana or Tushita Meditation Centres. For yoga lessons, head for the Iyengar Himalayan Yoga Centre (contact Kai Schoemann, secretary, HIYC, Dharamkot, Dharamsala-76219; Tel: 221312, Website: hiyogacentre.com). The Regional Mountaineering Centre (Tel: 221787) is also located here. Stay here at Dev Cottages (Tel: 221558, 221038; Tariff: Rs 1,200) which has 12 comfy rooms in 2-storeyed cottages.


Content Source: 
Outlook Traveller
Contributed by: 
Kishore Singh
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