Dubai was really two towns merged into one and divided by Dubai Creek (Khor Dubai), an inlet of the Gulf. Deira lies to the north and Bur Dubai to the south. Both districts are home to traditional architecture and bustling souqs, but the old city centre is in Deira. Glittering new office buildings along Sheikh Zayed Rd have moved the centre of Dubai further towards Abu Dhabi, while Jumeirah has stretched close to Jebel Ali, an area many are calling the 'new Dubai'. The focal point of Deira's hustle and bustle is on Baniyas Rd, which runs along Dubai Creek; Baniyas Square, also known as Al-Nasr Sq, which is at the heart of this commercial centre; Al-Maktoum Rd and Al-Maktoum Hospital Rd; and Naif Rd. On the Bur Dubai side, the old souq area runs from Al-Ghubaiba Rd to the Diwan (Ruler's Office) and inland as far as Khalid bin al-Waleed Rd.

Street addresses aren't used in Dubai. People refer to the main roads by name, but the smaller, numbered streets remain largely anonymous. If someone offers you directions like 'It's in the white villa, next to the big tree, across from the Avari Hotel,' don't fret. Your taxi driver will probably know the way.

Buses run between Dubai International Airport and Deira bus station every 15 to 20 minutes; however, the most popular way in and out is the metered, beige-coloured Dubai Transport taxis - which are also the best to catch anywhere, as most drivers know their way around.

Local buses run from the Deira bus station, near the Gold Souq, and the Bur Dubai station on Al-Ghubaiba Rd. Monthly bus passes, known as taufeer, get you unlimited travel on one or the other side of Dubai Creek or, more expensively, throughout the city.

Driving in the city of Dubai is considered an extreme sport, but masochists love it. If you hire a car, bring your credit card and a copy of your passport. Note that all accidents, no matter how small, must be reported to the police.

The older parts of Dubai, with their souqs, fascinating architecture and museums, are best seen on foot. Abra (water taxi) crisscross Dubai Creek from early morning until around midnight, and are a great way to see the waterfront.