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Dubare
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(Karnataka)


Kaveri's secret treasure trove

For a river that's so woven into the fabric of Coorg, there's precious little you see of the Cauvery. It leaps down from its perch at Talakaveri on Brahmagiri and disappears, only to reappear like a divine goddess at Bhagamandala, where it meets the Kannike and the invisible Sujyothi. The descent breaks up the stream into tributaries that form such a lattice of rivulets, it could teach FMCG companies a thing or two about distribution. It is this network of veins that breathes life into Coorg, making it a living, pulsating organism. While nearly every estate has its own stream or waterfall, the main river silently slides through a thick forest cover, unnoticed. If it weren't for the bridge after Kushalnagar, you wouldn't even know it existed.
But the river runs almost parallel to an 18-km backlane that connects Gudde hosur to the Madikeri-Siddapur Road. This unexplored stretch of the Cauvery, hemmed in by the Dubare Reserve Forest and the road, is one of the best riverside jaunts in Coorg. So hopelessly exposed, the river is forced to disgorge its little known treasures... the glint of a mahseer's scales, the frolicking of elephants, the splash of blue of a white-throated kingfisher, the childish gurgle of the river and the dull dwoop of a wild mango falling into the river before being swept away.
For a special glimpse of the Cauvery River in glorious naked beauty, catch her unawares in Dubare.
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To See & Do
Quite naturally, all of the activities here revolve around the river. There's fishing at Valnoor, elephant bathing at Dubare, swimming at Hosapatna and, if you are adventurous, riverside walks that connect the three places in a jagged line. The presence of numerous mango trees on the riverbank has spawned a whole generation of agro-rural water sports. Since you can't eat these wild mangoes, the best you can do is fetch the mango. Inane as it sounds, there's something inherently playful about the Cauvery, which transforms even the most sober adult into an ill-mannered chimp. The Cauvery water-sharing dispute is but an extremely virulent form of this ailment. To see what it does to elephants, you must drop by at Dubare.

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Dubare Elephant Training Camp
  Jungle Lodges runs the Elephant Training Camp, sandwiched between the south bank of the Cauvery and the Dubare Reserve Forest a place to watch elephants in different states of euphoria. Traditionally, this was where the elephants for the Mysore Dasara used to be trained. Currently they lead a pensioner's life, used mostly for jungle rides and sometimes for capturing new recruits with help from the local Kuruba tribes. The camp, being developed as a wildlife adventure camp, is home to 14 elephants. Jungle Lodges plans to build riverside tents and develop sport fishing in the second phase. For now, the camp serves as a practical info-centre on anything to do with elephants. The camp (Bangalore Tel: 080-5597021/ 24-25; Tariff: Rs 200) will offer accommodation after December 2003. Until then, it welcomes day-trippers. The tariff includes tea and snacks, the services of a naturalist who'll enlighten you about elephant conservation, an elephant ride and close interaction with the tuskers. The 2- to 3-hr Elephant Interaction Programme conducted by Jungle Lodges starts early at 8.30 am. It kicks off with a luxurious 45-minute bath in the Cauvery, where you get to scrub the elephant. The harder you scrub, greater the likelihood of him remembering it. The bathing ritual is followed by a feeding frenzy, wherein you feed it huge amounts of ragi and jaggery. Since you've been so good to the animal, he'll dress up in his howdah, put your utterly pooped self on his back and take you on a 30-minute ride into the jungle. Whoever said a dog was man's best friend? To get to this camp across the river, take the left turn from Guddehosur Intersection 4 km after Kushalnagar, cross Hosapatna and turn left again at the elephant signboard. A 3-km ride on a bumpy road will get you to the riverbank. There's parking space to your left and also a small tea stall, where you can ask for the boatman if he isn't to be found by the river. A to-and-fro ride costs Rs 10 per head. An uneventful crossing takes 5 minutes.

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White-Water Rafting
  The best thing up for grabs here is seasonal white-water rafting down the Cauvery till Cauvery Nisargadhama, recently introduced and run by John Pollard for Jungle Lodges. You start at 8.30 am and spend the next three hours gliding down the river, then take a 45-minute drive back to Dubare which is covered in the cost of Rs 800. Children should be above 12 years to participate, and adults should have no medical problems/ conditions. Contact Jungle Lodges (Bangalore Tel: 080-5597021/ 24-25; The Last Resort's Raj Shekhar (Tel: 9844065705) or Coorg Dale's Geoffrey Muthanna (Tel: 08276-297496) to book your white-water rafting trip.

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Fishing at Valnoor
  At Valnoor, the Cauvery broadens into pools populated by rohu and the legendary sport fish mahseer. The Forest Department, together with the Coorg Wildlife Society, offers angling at the department's Riverside Cottage at Valnoor. The set-up is rudimentary, which is why a permit fee costs as little as Rs 200 for an individual or one fishing party. The least you are expected to do is get along your own fishing rods. Fishing permits can be obtained from the Coorg Wildlife Society Office in Madikeri (Tel: 08272-223505, see 'Fast Facts'). But avoid going all the way up to Madikeri and instead get your permit from CS Ponappa, secretary of the society, at his residence in Trust Land Estate, Valnoor Village (Tel: 08276-297476), not too far from Riverside Cottage. Mr Ponappa will also give you the keys and direct you to the cottage. Anglers must fill out a form, to be returned within 10 days about lure used, areas where fish were found and details of weight and size of fish caught. Angling is strictly catch-and-release, so you must toss the mahseer back into the river after the customary photograph, rather than tossing it onto the fire. Other fish can be kept for consumption up to a maximum of two kg. After you're done, the keys of the cottage must be returned to Mr Ponappa. To get to Valnoor from Dubare, re-cross the river and get back onto the Siddapur Road. Turn left towards Siddapur, then after 2 km, turn left again at the fish signboard towards Valnoor, 3 km away.

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Treks
  The entire landscape is criss-crossed with forest trails but if you aren't with a local guide, you'll end up at the river or trespass into someone's private property. Geoffrey Muthanna of Coorg Dale in Valnoor organises guided treks around the area. A short trek from the fishing camp is Doddakalbetta or Big Stone Hill, which is a great place to watch the sunset. A slightly longer trek inside the forest leads you to an ancient Ganapati temple at Ammale, which is believed to be over a thousand years old.
Content Source: 
Outlook Traveller
Contributed by: 
Anurag Mallick
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