▼ Weekend Getaways
Plan your weekend
 

Travel Guide

Travel Guide » Asia » Dubare
Explore: The World | India
Dubare
book a hotel
(Karnataka)


Kaveri's secret treasure trove

For a river that's so woven into the fabric of Coorg, there's precious little you see of the Cauvery. It leaps down from its perch at Talakaveri on Brahmagiri and disappears, only to reappear like a divine goddess at Bhagamandala, where it meets the Kannike and the invisible Sujyothi. The descent breaks up the stream into tributaries that form such a lattice of rivulets, it could teach FMCG companies a thing or two about distribution. It is this network of veins that breathes life into Coorg, making it a living, pulsating organism. While nearly every estate has its own stream or waterfall, the main river silently slides through a thick forest cover, unnoticed. If it weren't for the bridge after Kushalnagar, you wouldn't even know it existed.
But the river runs almost parallel to an 18-km backlane that connects Gudde hosur to the Madikeri-Siddapur Road. This unexplored stretch of the Cauvery, hemmed in by the Dubare Reserve Forest and the road, is one of the best riverside jaunts in Coorg. So hopelessly exposed, the river is forced to disgorge its little known treasures... the glint of a mahseer's scales, the frolicking of elephants, the splash of blue of a white-throated kingfisher, the childish gurgle of the river and the dull dwoop of a wild mango falling into the river before being swept away.
For a special glimpse of the Cauvery River in glorious naked beauty, catch her unawares in Dubare.
book a hotel
|
Getting There
|
To Do & See
|
Where to Stay
Jungle Lodge's Dubare Elephant Camp
Jungle Lodge's Dubare Elephant Camp will have tented accommodation up and running after December 2003. But there are other delightful Coorgi home stays at Valnoor and Hosapatna, plus a budget riverside cottage at Valnoor famous among anglers for its access to the mahseer-laden Cauvery River.
Make sure you are carrying swimming trunks, rubber duckies or inflatable tubes to help kids stay afloat. During monsoons, the Cauvery is not the docile stream it is for the rest of the year, but a raging torrent.
 
 080-5597021/ 24-25
 
 Rs 200
Coorg Dale home-stay
Staying with Geoffrey Muthanna, the Chief Instructor of Coorg Water Sports, a member of Coorg Adventure Club and owner of Coorg Dale home-stay in Valnoor, does have its advantages. There are riverside walks, estate walks, walks through Dubare forest; trails that cover the proverbial all walks of life. The Cauvery is just over a kilometre away and is an excellent place for swimming, fishing and crossing the river on bamboo rafts. In case you aren't carrying your own fishing rods and tackle, local bamboo rods can be arranged. Accommodation comes in the form of three double rooms, but big groups are also accommodated. If you are into adventure sports, Geoffrey can arrange a wide range of activities from high-speed boat rides to kayaking, according to the season. Traditional Kodava food for breakfast, lunch, dinner and unlimited supply of fresh plantation coffee are on offer here. To get there, take the Valnoor turn (fish signboard), and scarcely 1 km down the road, take the left diversion onto a mud road, which will deposit you at Ammangala Estate. If you get lost, just ask for Geoffrey Muthanna.
 
 08276-297496
 
 Rs 1,250 to 1,500
Riverside Cottage
The Forest Department has Riverside Cottage at Nanjarayapatna Post near Valnoor and the only reason you might want to stay here is the location. Just one metre further and you'd be in the river. Civilisation is quite a walk away. And there's no kitchen, which is why Riverside Cottage (a room, attached bath, foyer and sit-out) is available at Rs 100 a day, even if it does have its own coracle. Understandably, this is a favourite haunt of anglers. Just carry bread, grill your catch on wood fires and you are on the path to nirvana. In case you are staying for an extensive period and aren't very confident about your fishing skills, you might want to pick up utensils, supplies and a gas-stove from Kushalnagar. Bookings can be made at the Forest Department or Coorg Wildlife Society offices in Madikeri, but it's better to call CS Ponappa, Secretary, Coorg Wildlife Society on 08276-297476, who stays at Valnoor. He'll ask the watchman Yadav Kumar to clear up the junk in the cottage and keep it ready for you. Make sure you ask him for safe swimming spots before stepping into the water.
 
 08276-297476
 
 Rs 100, foreigners Rs 500
Raj Shekhar's The Last Resort
Raj Shekhar's The Last Resort in Hosapatna is a swanky private cottage with two cosy rooms, a loft and a kitchenette where you can do your own cooking. It is perfect for four to six people, where at least one member is a great cook. But South Indian meals are also on offer if you prefer to stay out of the kitchen. The river is a short 10-minute trudge past paddy fields from The Last Resort. This is an excellent spot for swimming, fishing and wild mango agro-rural water sports. Other activities include forays into Dubare Forest. Make sure you are carrying a picnic hamper, which can be arranged at an extra cost.
 
 08276-297540
 
 Rs 1,000
Content Source: 
Outlook Traveller
Contributed by: 
Anurag Mallick
Best viewed in 1024 x 768 pixels screen resolution and IE 6.0 and above