All roads lead to Frankfurt. Well, maybe not all, but most of Germany's Autobahnen converge there. It's neatly pocketed in a valley below the northern Taunus Hills, equidistant from Hamburg and the Alps, in the centre of the greater Rhine-Main region. The Main River flows east-west through the city, separating the north bank's skyscrapers and bustle from the south's more laid-back charms. The massive Hauptbahnhof train station dominates the west of the city, squatting in the red-light district on the north bank, just outside the old city walls; the financial district and trade fair centre are just northwest. A 15-minute walk east brings you to the city's traditional heart, Römerberg in Altstadt (old town).

The pedestrianised and shop-lined Zeil runs west to east from the baroque Hauptwache U/S-Bahn station to the Konstablerwache U/S-Bahn station, and further east towards the zoo. Go to studenty Bockenheim in the northwest for all things bohemian; cafe-filled, cosmopolitan Bornheim is northeast. A section of The Main's south bank is dubbed Museumsufer for its stash of impressive museums, backed by lovely Sachsenhausen's quaint houses, narrow alleys and apple-wine taverns. Cheapish accommodation clusters around the Hauptbahnhof ( although it can be sleazy), Bockenheim and Bornheim, with pricier options in Westend. For food, bevvy and entertainment, head to Fressgasse ('Munch Alley'), Sachsenhausen, Bockenheim and Bornheim.

You'll get footsore pretty fast in Frankfurt, but luckily the public transport system is excellent and integrates the city's bus, tram, S-Bahn and U-Bahn lines. It's expensive but effective, and you can buy hourly or daily tickets at almost any stop (as long as you can decipher the ticketing machines' enigmatic instructions). The underground S-Bahn and U-Bahn train lines are convenient and run more frequently than buses. Trams run on major routes and offer above-ground views. Cycling isn't a bad way of getting around, and most streets have designated bike lanes. The maze of one-way streets in the centre of the city makes driving a somewhat frustrating experience, so you're better off parking as close as you can get and hoofing it or hailing an expensive but easy-to-find taxi.