Green salad followed by entrecôte steak with fries and a herb and butter sauce of legendary standing. It's the only dish on the menu and one bite and you'll feel like you've become a member of a (not so) secret society. The harassed staff can be a bit abrupt at times, but the entrecôte is worth it. Reservations essential.

No brand labels, beautiful objects and an eye for design are trademarks of this fusion restaurant where Genevan beauties flock. The king prawns, pan-fried with green pepper, sweet Thai basil and mango and served with a mint and apricot mousse, will certainly win your heart. Green almond and parmesan risotto woos vegetarians.

A cultured crowd gathers at this dining spot, decked in red and gold and oozing attitude. Particularly hot is its u jardinù bobba, one of Geneva's best roof terraces. Inventive mains range from veal medallions with pistachio nuts to Gorgonzola-dunked gnocchi.

The Black Cat is a live music venue that saunters between jazz, Latin and rock, and rubs up against the leg of world music from time to time. They have been taking their live music seriously for almost 20 years, so expect high-quality performances. Music lovers of all ages come for the hot jam and cool vibe.

Geneva's one-time riverside pumping station (1886) is now a striking space for rock concerts, opera, ballet and other cultural events. The place to come if you are in the mood for culture and entertainment.

A converted goldroughing factory, L'Usine is something of a bohemian party-base in the city. Entertainment ranges from concerts to cabaret, theatre, cinema, art happenings, clubbing at Le Zoo and other nocturnal diversions.

Nearby, between Rue du Strand and Boulevard de Saint-Georges, is a spread-out collection of alternative arts venues known as 'Artamis'. Also ask locally about in-vogue (and often short-lived) squats that put on various events.

Like to watch? This extensive collection shows off the precision art and elaborate decoration involved in the making of quality time-pieces. The watches on show date as far back as the 16th century and were mostly assembled in Geneva or elsewhere in Switzerland.

Formed on the back of the Geneva Convention in 1864, the International Red Cross became the world's first humanitarian organisation. Its museum highlights the fascinating origins of the Red Cross (and Muslim adjunct, the Red Crescent), and presents a compelling multimedia trawl through atrocities perpetuated by humanity in recent history.

During a gruesome battle for independence in northern Italy in 1859, Genevan philanthropist and businessman Henry Dunant was moved to action by the plight of dying and suffering soldiers. He made the proposal that 'some international principle, sanctioned by a convention inviolate in character...might constitute the basis for societies for the relief of the wounded'. So, formed on the back of the Geneva Convention in 1864, the International Red Cross became the world's first humanitarian organisation. Although the museum's message is supposed to be one of hope and a collective responsibility to humanity, it is the images and stories of terror that are more psychologically lasting. Despite the sombre nature of the museum it is well worth a visit.

The centre of town is dominated by the imposing, partially-Romanesque, partially-Gothic Cathédrale de St Pierre. John Calvin preached here from 1536 to 1564; his seat outlasted him and still sits in the north aisle. Beneath the cathedral can be seen the crumbling remains of a much older church.

The iconic Jet d'Eau, the world's tallest fountain, shoots water into the air with incredible force (200kmh/124mph and 1360 horsepower) to create a 140m (469ft) plume. At any one time seven tonnes of water is in the air and much of it can fall on spectators on the pier. The Jet is shut off during gusty weather.

Trace the life of protestant John Calvin in the Musée International de la Réforme (International Museum of Reformation). He preached at the nearby Cathédrale de St-Pierre between 1536 and 1564, which is also worth a visit.