Halebid is inseparable from Belur, connected through the ages by a common Hoysala heritage and recently, also by a district road. Belur has the stupendous Chenna Kesava Temple of roughly the same time period and built along the same lines as the Hoysaleswara Temple in Halebid. This temple was built to commemorate a joyous occasion for the Hoysalas ? their rout of the Cholas at Talakad (in today?s Mysore District) but it is not in as good shape. Still, you could spend hours studying the minute carvings on the exterior. Here is the Hoysala emblem... there Lord Brahma with a flowing beard... a goddess holding a mirror to her perfect face, at her feet her assistants attach her anklets. Take it all in, then walk around the back and check out Lord Ram?s footprints (who wore a size 9 or 10 by the looks of it), carved into the platform and smeared with vermillion. This temple is a ?live? one and there are daily pujas to Lord Chenna Kesava. A particularly arresting sight within his sanctum are the ancient jet-black Hoysala pillars, covered with bright vermillion smeared on by devotees. The ticket counter at the entrance to the Chenna Kesava Temple, selling brightly coloured pictures of the deity, also stocks postcard sets of Belur, Halebid and Sravanabelgola. These aren?t highest quality, but the gaudiness of the colours somehow adds to their charm. A row of shops greets you as you step outside and into the southern end of Belur?s bazaar. Buy cheap glass bangles that come in a hundred different colours, just for fun. For even greater fun, buy some excellent coffee to take home, for Karnataka?s coffee country begins at the very edges of Belur. If you have the time, stroll around Belur?s fresh market, a delightfully primitive affair. Piles of gourds, discarded cabbage leaves and sundry produce lie around in vast mounds, decorated by ? unsurprisingly ? some very plump cows. Timings: Sunrise to 8 pm; inner sanctum of main deity closed from 10-11 am; 1-3 pm; 5-6.15 pm; Guide fee Rs 125-250 Belur is better equipped with hotels than Halebid. The Hoysala Village Resort (Tel: 08172-256764, 256793/95; Tariff: Rs 1,400-2,400) is 7 km before Belur when driving from Hassan, at Handinakere. It has 33 cottages, a restaurant, ayurvedic massage, a travel desk, parking, playground ? your best option close to Belur. Vishnu Regency (Tel: 08177-723490; Tariff: Rs 400-500), a 2 minutes walk to the temple on Kempe Gowda Road, has 20 rooms with room service, hot water, parking and laundry. The hotel arranges for taxis and also organises temple visits. Karnataka Tourism?s Mayura Velapuri (Tel: 722209; Tariff: Rs 160-700) is well-located less than 5 minutes from the temple on Kempe Gowda Road. For meals, Belur has the Belur Restaurant at the Hoysala Village Resort, serving multi-cuisine fare. The Vishnu Sagar Restaurant at the Vishnu Regency serves both North Indian and South Indian veggie fare. Non-guests can eat in the restaurant without prior booking. Liquor and non-veg are served only in the rooms. The restaurant at Mayura Velapuri serves Indian and Chinese meals.