Three rivers - the Elbe, Alster and Bille - along with a scenic grid of narrow canals called Fleete traverse Hamburg. As if that isn't enough water, the city centre boasts its very own lakes - the Inner and Outer Alster Lakes.

The city centre is home to most of Hamburg's main attractions. This half-moon area, which arches north of the Elbe, is bordered by a curve of roads whose names all end in wall (ramparts) and which mark the limits of the old city. Cutting through the middle is the Alsterfleet, a canal that separates the Altstadt (Old City) from the Neustadt (New City). Feeling lost? Look out for the bronze, helmet-shaped Michaeliskirche, an easily seen landmark, south of the city centre.

To the east of the city centre is St Georg, a neighbourhood of contradictions, where lovely leafy streets intersect with junkie-infested lanes. The real seediness starts west of the city centre in the red-light and entertainment district of St Pauli, particularly along the infamous Reeperbahn. Further west, St Pauli gives way to the lively Altona district, and just to the north are Schanzenviertel and Karolinenviertel, both known for their alternative vibe. The city's premiere neighbourhoods follow the northern rim of the Outer Alster Lake to the north of the city centre, with Winterhude and Uhlenhorst on the eastern shore and Harvestehude and Rotherbaum on the west. The Universitätsviertel (University Quarter) occupies the area west of Rotherbaum.

The airport, one of the first in Europe, is located in Fuhlsbüttel, to the city's north. A taxi from the airport takes 25 minutes.

Hamburg's extensive system of U-Bahn, S-Bahn, buses and ferries won't leave you stranded. S- and U-Bahn tickets can be purchased at the bright orange machines at station entrances, while bus tickets are available from the driver.

City driving is surprisingly easy, with clear thoroughfares cutting through the town centre. The only drawback is expensive parking, particularly in the city centre or at hotel car parks.