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Hampi
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(Karnataka)


The soul amidst the ruins

Hampi is a historical site scattered with ruins and excavations a strange landscape suffused by silence and austerity. As the capital of the Hindu kingdom of Vijayanagara, which reached its zenith under the rule of Krishnadeva Raya between 1509 and 1529, Hampi was a beautiful city in its prime. It was vanquished in a war with five rival kingdoms in 1565, when the city was ransacked and destroyed completely.
Entering the vicinity of Hampi, one sees massive boulders in the largely rocky landscape, balanced on or against others in seemingly precarious positions. The scale of things here from the size of the mammoth boulders to the vastness of architectural space, with scarcely any relief in the form of trees or water bodies only adds to the aura of Hampi. This land is not just empty, it is desolate. And probably the worst thing you can do is visit it for only a day. This place needs at least a weekend, so that its silence can settle into your soul and you can begin to feel its vibrations.
This is the only ruined city of any significance to be seen in India. Its 33-km area is large, and the surviving structures are sufficient to give a feel of what the city would have been like in its prime. More important, however, is the fact that Hampi challenges every notion of beauty you could have held about a place. One can find places of great natural beauty in mountains, seasides, plains and deserts; compared to Hampi these are clichd. This is land so barren, it is stone. But not your average, run-of-the-mill stone. Here you are surrounded with boulders larger than the largest trees, all balanced on a rocky and undulating terrain. They haven?t been chiselled into brick except for the ruined structures; they just lie around the place pretending to be nothing but themselves.
Unlike Jaisalmer, for instance, which uses sandstone to create a lovely city that glows in the sunlight, Hampis granite is uncompromisingly itself brown and grey and streaked with black. This is a place that easily could have inspired Tagores The Hungry Stones and is worthy of a visit simply to experience how a completely different terrain transforms the self. All the rest is a bonus.
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Getting There
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To See & Do
You approach Hampi from Hospet, through the south. The village of Hampi has one main street Hampi Bazaar, which is closed to all vehicular traffic. The bus stand is just off it on the eastern side. At the western extreme is the Virupaksha Temple. At the eastern extreme of the street is the museum at the base of Matangi Hill, run by the Directorate of Archaeology and Museums. And a few metres from this are the steps that lead to the Achutaraya Temple, which bypasses Matangi Hill. The KSTDC office too is on this street. The ruins are scattered south-east of Hampi Bazaar. Be prepared for some amount of walking even if you hire a car or take the guided tour ? carry along your walking shoes. If you can cycle or ride a motorbike, this is a great way to see the place. No matter what you decide, carry some kind of head-gear for protection from the sun, and take a picnic lunch (and water) along you can always get bread and bajjias, boiled eggs or parathas from one of the eateries to carry along with you. On your first day here, it may be worthwhile to take the guided tour run by KSTDC or hire a vehicle (auto or car) to get a broad overview of the ruins. If you choose the latter, make sure you take a government-approved guide along, otherwise you will find yourself shelling out money at every site for mediocre guides. If you don't use the services of a guide, you also run the risk of overdosing on hundreds of stones that don't, after all, speak. If you would rather go solo, do your research since just the aesthetics of some sites are insufficient reason to commend themselves. Keep in mind that if you don't have at least a minimal affection for history, Hampi is not for you no pubs, no non-veg restaurants, no shopping. The locals are a quiet lot, so there's none of the ease of conversation one can strike up as in Rajasthan, none of the curiosity towards outsiders as in Bihar, none of the colour of Tamil Nadu. Hampi still needs a healthy dose of tourist-oriented dynamism. It remains a somewhat unexplored territory.

raahi.com
 
See the ruins?
  ...by guided bus tour, car, auto, motorbike, cycle or on foot, depending on your level of fitness. Route maps are available at the KSTDC office, but in the event that the boss is out, be warned that he takes the keys with him ? you won?t get a map, pamphlet or book out of that office for love or money. In this case, head straight for Aspiration Stores near the Virupaksha Temple entrance, buy one of the badly produced guidebooks and make the best of it. If you happen to rent a vehicle, the driver won?t double up as guide. At most, he?ll know some of the names of places he is driving you to. So be sure to hire a guide. The sites are plenty. Absolutely not to be missed: the Virupaksha Temple, Vittala Temple, Queen?s Bath, Lotus Mahal, Elephant Stable, Underground Well, Mint and the Watch Tower, Hampi Bazaar, Sule Bazaar, Tungabhadra Dam, Hanuman Temple across the river at Anegundi.

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Visit the museum
  Check out the photo exhibition at the Museum situated at the bottom of Matangi Hill. It consists of 60 enlarged pictures of Hampi taken in 1853 by a British photographer and a matching set (from the same angles) taken 130 years later by an Australian. Interesting as a chronicle of stasis and change, as well as the amount of work the Directorate of Archaeology has put into the restoration of the ruins.

raahi.com
 
Take a coracle ride
  While other places boast boat rides across placid lakes and rubber-dinghy rides on fiery rapids, Hampi allows you to cross the nicely moving Tungabhadra River in what looks like half a large coconut shell. This coracle not only depends entirely on the skills of the boatman to move it along and prevent it from capsizing, it also requires you to squat on the sloped edges before it can move. That the boat makes progress is a feat in itself! Not for the stiff limbed.

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Climb Matangi Hill
  If you?re the adventurous sort, climb the Matangi Hill, avoiding the stairs and going across the rocks. For most people, the stairs will be sufficiently taxing.
Content Source: 
Outlook Traveller
Contributed by: 
Dhanu Nayak
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