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Travel Guide » Asia » Hampi
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Hampi
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(Karnataka)


The soul amidst the ruins

Hampi is a historical site scattered with ruins and excavations a strange landscape suffused by silence and austerity. As the capital of the Hindu kingdom of Vijayanagara, which reached its zenith under the rule of Krishnadeva Raya between 1509 and 1529, Hampi was a beautiful city in its prime. It was vanquished in a war with five rival kingdoms in 1565, when the city was ransacked and destroyed completely.
Entering the vicinity of Hampi, one sees massive boulders in the largely rocky landscape, balanced on or against others in seemingly precarious positions. The scale of things here from the size of the mammoth boulders to the vastness of architectural space, with scarcely any relief in the form of trees or water bodies only adds to the aura of Hampi. This land is not just empty, it is desolate. And probably the worst thing you can do is visit it for only a day. This place needs at least a weekend, so that its silence can settle into your soul and you can begin to feel its vibrations.
This is the only ruined city of any significance to be seen in India. Its 33-km area is large, and the surviving structures are sufficient to give a feel of what the city would have been like in its prime. More important, however, is the fact that Hampi challenges every notion of beauty you could have held about a place. One can find places of great natural beauty in mountains, seasides, plains and deserts; compared to Hampi these are clichd. This is land so barren, it is stone. But not your average, run-of-the-mill stone. Here you are surrounded with boulders larger than the largest trees, all balanced on a rocky and undulating terrain. They haven?t been chiselled into brick except for the ruined structures; they just lie around the place pretending to be nothing but themselves.
Unlike Jaisalmer, for instance, which uses sandstone to create a lovely city that glows in the sunlight, Hampis granite is uncompromisingly itself brown and grey and streaked with black. This is a place that easily could have inspired Tagores The Hungry Stones and is worthy of a visit simply to experience how a completely different terrain transforms the self. All the rest is a bonus.
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Getting There
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To Do & See
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Where to Stay
If you want a proper hotel with a restaurant and swimming pool, base yourself in Hospet. But in this case, you're far from the ruins and in a town atmosphere. Within Hampi, it's best to stay in the bazaar or thereabouts, where there are several dozen guest houses homes which rent out a few rooms that go by the names of Vicky Guest House, Shanthi Guest House or Gopi Guest House. You can ask your auto or taxi driver to take you to one, or get off at the bazaar and walk to the parallel street where several are located. The other option is to cross the Tunga bhadra and find, on the northern bank, a few huts available for rent, though these are more like a foreigner's colony
KSTDC?s Hotel Mayura Bhuvaneshwari (Hampi)
Closest to Hampi in Kamalapura is KSTDC?s Hotel Mayura Bhuvaneshwari, right near the ruins and particularly close to the Queen?s Bath. They take care of all your sightseeing needs with guided tours, but we recommend that you hire a cycle. The ruins are so close that this is a lovely way to go on your own tour of discovery. They are proud of the fact that their water is heated by solar energy in this ecologically sensitive heritage precinct, so do write sweet things in the Visitor?s Book. However, keep in mind that this hotel is located in a slightly isolated area with no auto stands and only taxis as your transport option, which hold you to ransom. Most of the action is around Hampi Bazaar ? dhabas, shops, et al... so unless you?ve got your own transport, this is not an option to consider.
 
 08394-441574
 
 Rs 350 to 750
Shanbagh Towers (Hospet)
Arranges taxis and guides.
 
 08394-425910-11
 
 Rs 400 to 900
Hotel Malligi (Hospet)
This is one of the better hotels in Hospet, offering all the necessary facilities.
 
 08394-428101-17
 
 Rs 200 to 500
Hotel Priyadarshini (Hospet)
Located on Station Road, it is a good budget option surrounded by a landscaped garden.
 
 08394-427313
 
 Rs 150 to 700
Hotel Nagarjuna Residency (Hospet)
It is a budget option in Patel Nagar.
 
 08394- 429601-03
 
 Rs 150 to 500
Ranjana Guest House (Hospet)
It is famous among Hampi regulars for its wholesome veg food.
 
 08394-441696
 
 Rs 300 to 400
KSTDC?S Hotel Mayura Vijayanagara (Tungabhadra)
Four kilometres west of Hospet, by Tungabhadra Dam, is KSTDC?S Hotel Mayura Vijayanagara. But be warned, thanks to the monsoon?s recent bias against interior Karnataka, the dam is all but dry.
 
 08394-439270
 
 Rs 125 to 190
Kishkinda Heritage Resort (Gangavathy)
Kishkinda Heritage Resort is an excellent hotel near Gangavathy, 30 km from Hampi by road. It?s an hour?s drive from Hampi but well worth the extra kilometre. Alternatively, you can cross over the Tungabhadra in a coracle for quick access to Hampi. Kishkinda Resort boasts a swimming pool and kid?s playground and offers pick-ups from Hospet Station.
 
 08533-387034
 
 Rs 1,200 to 1,700
Sarvesh Hotel (Gangavathy)
There is another good option in Gangavathy, offering all the necessary facilities and two restaurants.
 
 08533-330912-14
 
 Rs 265 to 1,250
Content Source: 
Outlook Traveller
Contributed by: 
Dhanu Nayak
  
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