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Travel Guide » Asia » Honnemardu
Explore: The World | India
Honnemardu
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(Karnataka)


Linganamakki's emerald isle

In 1965, Linganamakki dammed the Sharavathi River. When the dam's sluice gates were closed and the temporary walls erected between the hills blasted away, the waters from the Sharavathi roared into the gorge, consuming large tracts of evergreen forest. Once the waters settled, an enormous shimmering mirror of blue spread over several square kilometres. Linganamakki Reservoir is better known as Honnemardu after the tiny hamlet that nestles above the hills overlooking the waters. And when the reservoir overflows, the run-off cascades 960 ft downstream as the Jog Falls, India's highest and the second highest waterfall in Asia.
Almost half way across the reservoir, an emerald isle visible from Honnemardu nestles amidst the blue waters. Take a coracle from the mainland and glide across. Even as your tent is pitched at dusk, you can hear the chirp of the cicadas, the wind whistle through the bamboo thickets and the soft swish of bats as they settle on trees laden with fruit. The silence is disturbed more rudely by the loud metallic calls of the racket-tailed drongo. But it?s the nights that are the most magical. As a bonfire blazes and the sweet aroma of roasting potatoes wafts towards the tent, you can lie on your back and gaze at the stars with little else to do. There you are, on your very own island in a lake surrounded by verdant hills, miles away from the hurly-burly of the city.
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A Yacht For You
A traditional coracle measures 8-10 ft in diameter, is made from bamboo and buffalo hide and coated with pitch. Rotund as they are, traditional coracles are nevertheless a stable proposition that take a lot of weight ? including the occasional moped. The smooth and tiny rocks that create super-mini falls at every second metre along Karnataka?s rivers are no match for the smoothness of the coracle?s flat bottom ? a beauty gliding across smooth waters. But the ones used by the guides in Honnemardu are made of fiberglass, with hidden air pockets on the sides to ensure they won?t sink should water get in.
There was a time when one could purchase a coracle for around Rs 800-1,200 from the hamlets that dot the hills around Honnemardu and Jog Falls, and cruise up river. Every other tourist hotspot in Karnataka with the tiniest body of water in sight offers coracle rides. Fishermen too still use them, but it?s not advisable for the less-experienced to try their hand at rowing coracles because the currents are swift and the waters run deep. It takes considerable skill before you can learn how to spin a coracle on a virtual central axis. But you could still have one made to your specifications for about Rs 2,000 ? a smaller version to hang, oars and all, in your den.
Content Source: 
Outlook Traveller
Contributed by: 
Allen Mendonca
  
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