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Kabini
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(Karnataka)


Pachyderm Palaces

This is an invitation to take part in one of the greatest elephant shows in Asia. It doesn't consist of pachyderms kicking a football around, or riding a tricycle. This elephant show is all about raw intensity, wild passion, brute magnetism and a sense of unbridled power being exuded by the very air around. This is an arena where you have not three or four or six elephants doing the star turn, but 200. Or maybe 250, in just one evening....
Quite the extraordinary thing about the Kabini area is the existence of a mind-blowing 60 sq km of static water inside the forest precincts, the result of a dam built across the river at Beechanahalli. The water bifurcates the national parks of Nagarhole and Bandipur, but unites a spectacular range of wildlife in glorious abandon on its shores.
From the giant tuskers to the mouse deer, to barking deer and chital, to herds of gaur and sambhar, to the rare but definitely spottable tiger and panther, and the sloth bear... they are all here. And the birds? They flock together. Painted storks, egrets, herons and ibis. The vultures soar high even as the crested serpent eagle sits in majesty, scanning the area, seating itself on one of the innumerable stumps of wood that peek out of the water's surface, vestiges of once proud trees that were submerged by the dam.
But then again, Kabini is all about elephants and more elephants. Some 1,500 of them roam free in the jungles of Nagarhole alone, of which Kabini is a primary part. And according to Project Elephant reports, there are 5,500 to 6,000 of them in the contiguous stretches of forests comprising Nagarhole, Bandipur, Mudumalai and Biligirirangana sanctuaries, not at all far from each other, if you were a crow! Or why, even if you had a jeep!
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 Kabini
Nagarhole National Park  
(1 km)

Once an exclusive hunting preserve of the Maharajas of Mysore, Nagarhole National Park was renamed after the late Rajiv Gandhi, but faces the same fate as Delhi's Connaught Place and Connaught Circle which are still called by their popular old names. So it is with Nagarhole. The park, situated in the Deccan Plateau, forms an integral part of the Nilgiri Biosphere Reserve. The Nagarhole River winds through it and finally meets the Kabini, the largest river draining the forest. A dam built on the Kabini has created a splendid lake to the south of the park, which separates it from Bandipur Tiger Reserve. To the south-east lies the Wayanad Wildlife Sanctuary while to the west, coffee plantations separate the park from Brahmagiri Wildlife Sanctuary. This entire stretch is one of the finest remaining habitats of the Asian Elephant. Huge herds hang about in Nagarhole, and it's said that summer is the best time to see them. It is held that Nagarhole is worth visiting in the dry season, when wild animals are spotted in large numbers near the water bodies but don't bet your money on it. Successive dry spells have shrivelled the water sources so much that the animals feel content lying in the shade, away from view. Then, as the pre-monsoon showers bring the forest alive with streams, the resident birds start their breeding activities and the air resounds with melodious calls. Sprouting grass in the meadows and view lines attract elephants and gaur in large numbers. As rains intensify, the river resuscitates and the grandeur of Nagarhole slowly begins to unfold.


Content Source: 
Outlook Traveller
Contributed by: 
Sunaad Raghuram
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