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Kabini
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(Karnataka)


Pachyderm Palaces

This is an invitation to take part in one of the greatest elephant shows in Asia. It doesn't consist of pachyderms kicking a football around, or riding a tricycle. This elephant show is all about raw intensity, wild passion, brute magnetism and a sense of unbridled power being exuded by the very air around. This is an arena where you have not three or four or six elephants doing the star turn, but 200. Or maybe 250, in just one evening....
Quite the extraordinary thing about the Kabini area is the existence of a mind-blowing 60 sq km of static water inside the forest precincts, the result of a dam built across the river at Beechanahalli. The water bifurcates the national parks of Nagarhole and Bandipur, but unites a spectacular range of wildlife in glorious abandon on its shores.
From the giant tuskers to the mouse deer, to barking deer and chital, to herds of gaur and sambhar, to the rare but definitely spottable tiger and panther, and the sloth bear... they are all here. And the birds? They flock together. Painted storks, egrets, herons and ibis. The vultures soar high even as the crested serpent eagle sits in majesty, scanning the area, seating itself on one of the innumerable stumps of wood that peek out of the water's surface, vestiges of once proud trees that were submerged by the dam.
But then again, Kabini is all about elephants and more elephants. Some 1,500 of them roam free in the jungles of Nagarhole alone, of which Kabini is a primary part. And according to Project Elephant reports, there are 5,500 to 6,000 of them in the contiguous stretches of forests comprising Nagarhole, Bandipur, Mudumalai and Biligirirangana sanctuaries, not at all far from each other, if you were a crow! Or why, even if you had a jeep!
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Balley, Balley !
Huge cauldrons sit on a three-pointed stone platform fuelled by fire from large logs of wood. Inside the cavernous vessel a thick gravy of millet is boiling. Soon the millet will be spread out on a large slab of stone to cool off. And then expert tribal hands turn the entire concoction into ball-shaped mounds, almost the size of a football. It's snack time for the working elephants at the camp.
As the mahouts bring in their wards every day at 9 am and then again at 6 pm, the sight of the huge creatures being fed their snack is amusing. The elephants stand in a row, resting their trunks on wooden poles patiently waiting for their turn. No sooner than the mahouts begin to walk in their direction with the millet balls in their hands, that the trunk shoots up skyward and the mouths grow wide open. Pop go the balls one after the other, disappearing at once into the large cave that is their tummy. Why this diet? Just to drive away the boredom of having to eat leaves and grass and bark for 18 hours a day!
The star attraction at Balle used to be Drona, the world famous elephant who carried the golden howdah during the Dasara procession in Mysore consecutively for 18 years. A handsome creature, he would be the cynosure of a million eyes every time he walked imperiously at the end of the 2-km long procession. As terrible fate would have it, he died tragically a few years ago after being electrocuted by a high-tension electric wire passing through the Kakanakote jungles. The whole of Mysore grieved for him.
The elephant camp at Balle can be reached from Karapur in less than half an hour. Drive back to the Mysore-Mananthavady Road, turn left for Balle Camp, which is 7-8 km or 15-20 minutes down this road. This stretch, though an interstate highway, is full of pot holes.
Entry Free; Timings 7 am to 6 pm, closed April-May.
Content Source: 
Outlook Traveller
Contributed by: 
Sunaad Raghuram
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