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Travel Guide » Asia » Kabini
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Kabini
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(Karnataka)


Pachyderm Palaces

This is an invitation to take part in one of the greatest elephant shows in Asia. It doesn't consist of pachyderms kicking a football around, or riding a tricycle. This elephant show is all about raw intensity, wild passion, brute magnetism and a sense of unbridled power being exuded by the very air around. This is an arena where you have not three or four or six elephants doing the star turn, but 200. Or maybe 250, in just one evening....
Quite the extraordinary thing about the Kabini area is the existence of a mind-blowing 60 sq km of static water inside the forest precincts, the result of a dam built across the river at Beechanahalli. The water bifurcates the national parks of Nagarhole and Bandipur, but unites a spectacular range of wildlife in glorious abandon on its shores.
From the giant tuskers to the mouse deer, to barking deer and chital, to herds of gaur and sambhar, to the rare but definitely spottable tiger and panther, and the sloth bear... they are all here. And the birds? They flock together. Painted storks, egrets, herons and ibis. The vultures soar high even as the crested serpent eagle sits in majesty, scanning the area, seating itself on one of the innumerable stumps of wood that peek out of the water's surface, vestiges of once proud trees that were submerged by the dam.
But then again, Kabini is all about elephants and more elephants. Some 1,500 of them roam free in the jungles of Nagarhole alone, of which Kabini is a primary part. And according to Project Elephant reports, there are 5,500 to 6,000 of them in the contiguous stretches of forests comprising Nagarhole, Bandipur, Mudumalai and Biligirirangana sanctuaries, not at all far from each other, if you were a crow! Or why, even if you had a jeep!
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Getting There
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To Do & See
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Where to Stay
Sunkadakatte Guest House
Sunkadakatte Guest House (Reservations, DCF Hunsur) is one of the best places to stay, for the simple reason that it is right inside the forests, 5 km away from the main road and 15 km from Kabini River Lodge. It has two three-bedded rooms with clean, tiled toilets. Food is served piping hot by the caretaker, who can turn out both veg and non-veg meals. There's no electricity, and that's the best part. As night falls and you recline on comfy cane chairs in the wooden-floored, open verandah, you get to truly experience the wilds. Wild boars, habituated to human life, come looking for roots and tubers. The distant trumpeting of an elephant, the spine-chilling roar of a tiger in the immediate vicinity, the dull thudding of gaur hooves, the sudden chattering of grey langurs and the alarm calls of sambhar and chital echo all around.
 
 0822-2652041
 
 Rs 750
Kabini River Lodge
Kabini River Lodge offers 14 colonial-style rooms, six riverside cottages and five tents with all creature comforts. The tariff covers all meals, jeep safaris, elephant, coracle and speed boat rides, camera fees and taxes. Plus there is free stay for chauffeurs at their dormitory, with a minimum charge of Rs 150 for 3 meals a day.
Absolute opulence. Hoary history. Wholesome buffets. And total comfort. Situated on the banks of the Kabini River outside the boundaries of the jungle at a small village called Karapur, the Kabini River Lodge is where you'll get to experience Kabini at her wildest best, and much more. More than 100 years old, formerly the property of the Mysore Maharaja, it now belongs to the Karnataka Government and consists mainly of two teakwood-studded buildings known as the Maharaja Bungalow and the Viceroy Bungalow. The lodge has played host to the Czar of Russia, the Grand Dukes, the Prince of Wales and many Viceroys of India including Lord Hardinge, Lord Curzon, Lord Minto, Lord Irwin and Lord Mountbatten. Most recently, the Hollywood star Goldie Hawn (she even made a documentary film on the elephants of Kabini) came visiting.
The venerable John Wakefield is the resident director of Kabini River Lodge and an evening spent with him is like going on a conducted tour of a hundred years past. Meals here are served around a campfire at the lodge's Gol Ghar, a gazebo open on the sides. The Gol Ghar also has a bar.
 
 08228-264401-05
 
 Rs 2,000 to 2,300 per person per night
Water Woods
Water Woods, located close to Kabini River Lodge, is a colonial theme resort. Run by R. Ram, formerly with the Oberoi Group, the resort offers the whole Kabini experience on a luxurious note. Price includes stay, all meals and taxes per couple, per night on twin-share.
Water Woods has two suites and four standard rooms, and multi-cuisine fare of international class handled by an executive chef, a sous-chef and three other cooks.
The herbal massage with scented oils at the in-house spa, run by ayurveda professionals, is very popular with guests.
 
 08228-264421-22/ 31
 
 Rs 4,500 to 6,500
Krishna Prasad's Kapila Bungalow
Krishna Prasad's Kapila Bungalow is another option right near the entrance gate to Kabini, offering close to five-star comfort. Three large luxurious rooms with all modern amenities can accommodate up to 15 people. The tariff includes all meals, safaris, boat rides, forest entry fees and amateur camera fees.
Don't mistakenly take the Mysore-Murkal-Nagarhole Road when you set out for Kabini from Mysore.
 
 08228-264444
 
 Rs 1,250 to 2,500
Content Source: 
Outlook Traveller
Contributed by: 
Sunaad Raghuram
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