If you are an avid birdwatcher, or if you want to unearth the mysteries of Coorg, you must meet Sheroo Subbiah at Kadanga, who identifies birds not by sight but by their call. He built the first pulley in Coorg. As he sips coffee, he observes, The clouds are dipping over Soma Male, it's going to rain. His Ananda Estate (Tel: 08274-469345; Tariff: Rs 1,000-1,500), which offers a room to stay and home-cooked food, is in Arapattu, a short way off the Virajpet-Kakkabe Road, 2 km from Kadanga. Turn right opposite the Nalnad Palace to make your way to this beautiful estate by a rivulet. Apart from birdwatching and trekking to Kabbe Pass, you can swim and angle in the rivulet.