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Travel Guide » Asia » Kakkabe
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Kakkabe
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(Karnataka)


God's Own Attic

Thadiyendamol stood tall. For centuries, he had been the lone sentinel, towering over lesser peaks and serving as a landmark to seafarers. The tallest peak in Coorg, on a clear day he could see as far as the coast. Over time, he had seen spices from Coorg being exchanged for salt from Kerala. He had observed also the subsequent exchange of culture. How the open shrines of Coorg acquired the typical Kerala roof. And he watched the rain god Igguthappa, along with his brothers and sister, migrate from Kerala to Kodagu. Soon after, the sky darkened. Igguthappa had smiled. Along with him, he had brought rain. A Malabar whistling thrush, his blue-black coat ruffled, was caught unawares by the fat drops of rain and his melodious off-key whistle seemed trapped inside his throat. Thadiyendamol had covered himself in a giant white cloak and disappeared from view.... Now it is just you, the amplified sounds of a rainforest come alive and a faint mountain trail, with no end in sight.
Not too long ago, this little village in the heart of the south-west Kodagu rainforest used to be the largest honey producer in South-East Asia. But a chance virus wiped out the resident bee population. What you lose on the swings, you gain on the roundabouts. This crisis deflected attention to something more than honey the bountiful nature that produced it. Birdwatchers and backpackers soon realised that there's more to Kodagu than Madikeri. And proceeded to march through the clouds to rediscover Thadiyendamol, and the sleepy Kodava village of Kakkabe in the shadow of the great mountain.
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Quick Getaways from
 Kakkabe
Karada  
(11 km)

Karada, on the way back to Virajpet, is a town you can easily overshoot. Blame the scenic drive, the hypnotic winding road and the tiny cluster of shops to the right that do little to announce its presence. The turn through a temple arch on your left takes you 1 km inside to what is considered the best ain mane (ancestral home) in Coorg. You might get a closer glimpse if you are polite to its owners, the Nadikeriyendas. Further up there's a fork in the road. The right turn winds past an Ishwara Temple (5 km from the ain mane). A range of peaks lie stacked up on one side and on the other, an uninterrupted view right up till Madikeri and Kotte betta.


Kadanga  
(16 km)

If you are an avid birdwatcher, or if you want to unearth the mysteries of Coorg, you must meet Sheroo Subbiah at Kadanga, who identifies birds not by sight but by their call. He built the first pulley in Coorg. As he sips coffee, he observes, The clouds are dipping over Soma Male, it's going to rain. His Ananda Estate (Tel: 08274-469345; Tariff: Rs 1,000-1,500), which offers a room to stay and home-cooked food, is in Arapattu, a short way off the Virajpet-Kakkabe Road, 2 km from Kadanga. Turn right opposite the Nalnad Palace to make your way to this beautiful estate by a rivulet. Apart from birdwatching and trekking to Kabbe Pass, you can swim and angle in the rivulet.


Content Source: 
Outlook Traveller
Contributed by: 
Anurag Mallick
  
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