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Travel Guide » Asia » Kakkabe
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Kakkabe
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(Karnataka)


God's Own Attic

Thadiyendamol stood tall. For centuries, he had been the lone sentinel, towering over lesser peaks and serving as a landmark to seafarers. The tallest peak in Coorg, on a clear day he could see as far as the coast. Over time, he had seen spices from Coorg being exchanged for salt from Kerala. He had observed also the subsequent exchange of culture. How the open shrines of Coorg acquired the typical Kerala roof. And he watched the rain god Igguthappa, along with his brothers and sister, migrate from Kerala to Kodagu. Soon after, the sky darkened. Igguthappa had smiled. Along with him, he had brought rain. A Malabar whistling thrush, his blue-black coat ruffled, was caught unawares by the fat drops of rain and his melodious off-key whistle seemed trapped inside his throat. Thadiyendamol had covered himself in a giant white cloak and disappeared from view.... Now it is just you, the amplified sounds of a rainforest come alive and a faint mountain trail, with no end in sight.
Not too long ago, this little village in the heart of the south-west Kodagu rainforest used to be the largest honey producer in South-East Asia. But a chance virus wiped out the resident bee population. What you lose on the swings, you gain on the roundabouts. This crisis deflected attention to something more than honey the bountiful nature that produced it. Birdwatchers and backpackers soon realised that there's more to Kodagu than Madikeri. And proceeded to march through the clouds to rediscover Thadiyendamol, and the sleepy Kodava village of Kakkabe in the shadow of the great mountain.
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The Legends of Igguthapa
In Kodagu, nothing happens without Igguthappa. He is the rain god, the grain god and even controls the date of Huthri, the harvest festival of Coorgs. A priest at the Igguthappa Temple ascertains the exact date through the Kerala Panchang system. Igguthappa's migration from Kerala to Coorg symbolises the transfer of culture and religion that came in the wake of inter-state trade. It is the stuff of legends.
It is said that Igguthappa left Kerala because he found Coorg more hospitable. He was accompanied by his brothers Baithurappa (from Vayathur), Palurappa (from Palur), Thirunelli Pemmaiah (from Thirunelli), Payyanurappa (from Payyanur) and sister Pannangalathamme (from Pannangala). Tired and hungry after walking for days, they came to Mallamma Betta near Kakkabe. They fashioned a pot out of the earth, milked a stray cow and with the rice they had brought along, cooked some payasam by the heat of the sun. When it was cooked, they needed vessels to eat and asked the Pardanda family, whose land they had strayed onto, for plantain leaves. The Pardandas, angry at the intrusion, refused and Igguthappa cursed them that henceforth no plantain would ever grow on their property. And so it remains to this day.
Meanwhile, more rice was cooked. The sharp-witted Pannangalathamme challenged her brothers to eat the food without salt, which living in coastal Kerala, they were so accustomed to. Palurappa complained and threw the rice over his head, which fell down as pearls. Pannangalathamme smote him with the serving spoon. It?s said that the impact was such that Palurappa's head turned left and even today, the idol in his temple faces left.
According to another legend, the mighty Kodava king Lingaraja came on an elephant hunt in this area. After a whole day passed in futility, the enraged king ordered his Divan to assemble all the elephants in the area by the next day. As he slept that night, an elephant came and knocked the king?s tent over, but left him unharmed. Puzzled, the king went back to sleep and next morning rounded up 32 elephants and shot them. They bled profusely, but calmly walked off as if nothing had happened. Lingaraja was told that the animals were under the protection of Igguthappa. The shaken king was overcome by guilt and instructed his minister Boppa Divan to gift an engraved silver elephant to the temple, which can still be found next to the main idol of Igguthappa.
Content Source: 
Outlook Traveller
Contributed by: 
Anurag Mallick
  
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