The village of Pilaiyarpatti, on the Karaikudi-Tirupattur route, is believed to be over 1,800 years old. The Karpaga Vinayakar Temple here is the most famous of the nine clan temples of the Chettiars, and dates back to the fifth century. Although it tends to be a bit crowded, it's worth waiting your turn for a glimpse of the 6-ft high bas-relief of Ganesha.

Devakottai, the region's second largest town, has an even greater number of old houses, and visiting it is a must. Visit the Periya Minor Veedu, a grand old mansion with the typical architectural hallmarks of Chettiar glory a Spanish tiled roof, Italian floor tiles, and rows of teak pillars. Built in 1918, it was famous for its vast collection of photographs and paintings, now all gone. Its current inhabitants have retired into the last quarter of the house, leaving the rest to the bats. The beautiful floors are now grainy with bat droppings and the endless corridors echo with their wings. Again, a visit here requires the help of a Chettiar friend or The Bangala. But you don?t need any pull to sample some of the famous Devakottai chicken in the Chettinadu joints in town.

Visit one of the factories to see the manufacture of handmade tiles for which Athangudi is justly famous. The special sand of Athangudi is reportedly the secret behind the tiles, which are not baked but sun-dried and designed in some classic colours and patterns. This unusual technique has changed little over the years. The Bangala can help arrange a visit, but the owners are not always obliging.