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Karaikudi
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(Tamil Nadu)


Chettinadu on a platter

Karaikudi is the biggest city in Chettinad, a region best known to the outside world for its distinctive cuisine. What is less well known is that this small area, comprising about 72 villages, was the setting for a fascinating period of modern Tamil history. The Chettiar community of traders, part of this region since the Pallava Dynasty ruled here between the 4th and 9th centuries AD, reached the pinnacle of its glory between 1840 and 1940. Shrewd moneylenders and traders, they became the official moneylenders of the British Empire, soon spreading their roots to Burma, Sri Lanka, Indochina and Cambodia. The huge wealth they amassed was transferred back to villages in Chettinad, where their increasing social status and power was manifested in sumptuous possessions ranging from diamonds to brass to pewter and, most visibly, in their grand mansions.
Just as the British Empire declined, so did Chettiar fortunes after World War II, and they returned home, often having to sell their opulent possessions which can now be found in antique shops. Newer generations left their ancestral villages in Chettinadu to seek their fortunes elsewhere. Now, just the empty but impressive mansions remain, with one or two old members rattling around, keeping house with memories, photographs and bats for company.
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Heritage Dining
Conjured up in the heritage banglas of Chettinad, Devakottai and Karaikudi of south-central Tamil Nadu by the Nattukottai Chettiars, the hallmarks of Chettinad cuisine are spicy meat curries and fries and a strong liking for game. Chettinad cuisine has conquered not just Indian palates but has a global following. A bad side-effect has been that almost anything that's South Indian and non-vegetarian is called Chettinad in South Indian eateries across the globe, even if it's Malabar chicken curry from an entirely different coast.
Start your Chettinad meal with a spicy-sour currivepillai rasam that clears the palate for the flavours to follow. The signature Chettinad pepper chicken and mutton cooked with drumsticks are must-tries, but the seafood dishes are beyond compare. Spicy, yet infused with the flavour of the sea. Try the sora puttu (scrambled shark), nandu (crab) roast and prawn varuval. The soft kal dosais are perfect to soak up fish curry. Rabbit chukka fry is a wonderfully spiced dry fried dish.
Other highlights of the Chettinad table are pepper-fried nandu (crab), messy to eat but delicious, and chicken fry from Devakottai that goes best with delicate idiappams soaked in coconut milk. The best dish, in my opinion, is the mutton varuval, cooked with flecks of coconut meat, mustard and curry leaves. For meat lovers, it's ambrosia.
Content Source: 
Outlook Traveller
Contributed by: 
Vaishna Roy
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