It was well past sunset when we pulled into the Forest Department?s Rest House at Phansad Bird Sanctuary, 4 km off the main road. Right away, while feasting on a simple but hearty dinner, we heard the sound of wild boars digging up roots on the fringes of the compound. The jungle walk, early the following morning, was a visual treat of birds and butterflies, outlandish insects and the blush of flowers in bloom. The air was dense with the heady fragrance of rich vegetation and the musty aroma of decaying trees. A troop of monkeys shrieked their protest at our presence in their domain while a barking deer paused briefly to check out our intentions before vanishing into the thicket without a sound. And though we did not see the Giant Indian Squirrel (one of the star attractions of the sanctuary), we could hear its chatter as we approached an enormous nest in the branches of a tree. Pleased with the sightings, we were turning back towards the rest house when a streak of slivery white-blue floating through the trees caught our attention. It was the most gorgeous bird of paradise. The little creature, no more than two inches long, proudly sports two tail feathers over a foot-and-a-half long. It was almost as though the forest was tempting me with one of its finest treasures to linger on and miss the bus that would carry me back to civilisation. Blink and you?ll miss it. Although the Phansad Vanya Jeev Abhyaranya (wildlife sanctuary) is spread across 1,000 hectares and has been around for over eight years, it makes no mark on the tourist?s map. No accommodation facilities are available here though. Drive deep enough inside and you might see the ruins of the Siddi Nawab?s bungalow at Kesauli, which offers a splendid view of Kashid Beach. Entry fee Rs 5-50, depending on age and mode of travel.