Exploring Kozhikode Start with mithai theravu, literally Sweet Street, the busiest shopping strip in the city, packed with sweetmeat stalls. Don't miss the famous Calicut halwa, that's black or brown, and very, very sweet. Also famous are Calicut chips, banana chips that have been deep-fried in coconut oil. This street is not just for those with a sweet tooth. There are also dozens of textile and jewellery shops, as well as the odd bookshop. Most shops are open until 9 pm. Mananchira Square, the former courtyard of the Zamorin and currently the heart of the city, has the Town Hall and the Public Library. The presence of temples, mosques and churches here suggest the cultural plurality of the region. The 15th-century Kuttichara Mosque, or Mishkal Masjid, was partially burnt down by the Portuguese in 1510, but is still architecturally striking, and sports a traditional Keralite pagoda-like roof. You'll also find here, on the banks of a large pond, one of Calicut's oldest buildings, the Common wealth Trust Office, built in the traditional Kerala style of Mangalore tiles and teak. The pond was once the palace tank of King Mana Vikrama, the Zamorin unceremoniously deposed by da Gama. The Pazhassirajah Museum on East Hill displays ancient mural paintings, antique bronzes, old coins, models of temples, megalithic monuments like dolmonoid cysts and umbrella stones, among the earliest found in Kerala. Next door is the Art Gallery containing paintings by the legendary Raja Ravi Varma. The tree-lined beach at Kozhikode is not particularly attractive, though very popular with the locals. At one end, 2 km away from two 100-year-old piers, is Dolphin Point, where in the early hours you may get to spot dolphins cavorting in the sea. The tots would be interested in the park strangely named Lion?s Park situated next to the lighthouse at one end of the beach. It's a good spot to watch the sun set over the waters of the Arabian Sea. Near the lighthouse is an aquarium. Timings Park 10 am to 8 pm; aquarium 8.30 am to 6 pm Timber town Just 6 km outside town is Kallai, once the bustling centre of Calicut's timber trade. Kallai is believed to have been the largest such trading centre in Asia, exporting precious Malabar teak to distant shores. Though some timber trade still takes place, Kallai is, alas, a pale shadow of its past. It's still a quaint place though, where you can catch sight of lumbermen rolling logs of timber. If you can get on to the old iron bridge over the Kallai River, you're guaranteed a fine view and the best vantage point for your camera. Cruise the Malabar backwaters The backwaters of Malabar are lesser known than those in central Kerala, hence less crowded. Traditional rice boats, converted into houseboats, can be hired at Purakkattiri, close to Purakkattiri Bridge on the Ullery-Perambra road, 10 km from the city. The best routes are along the Kallai, the Canoli Canal and Elathur. You can also cruise all the way up to Kadalundi, where the rivers meet the sea. Mavila Resorts (Tel: 0495-2352447) is located in Kasargode District, but offers houseboat cruises which start from Purakkattiri, 15 km north of Kozhikode. Short-term cruises of around 5 hrs (Tariff: Rs 4,500-5,000), plus 24-hr cruises (Tariff: Rs 7,500) are offered. The cruise is on the Agarapuzha River, which merges with the Korapuzha River further on. The tariffs are for four passengers. In case of more, Rs 400-1,000 is added per head, depending on the length of the cruise.