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Kozhikode (Calicut)
Kozhikode
(Kerala)
The Spice of Malabar
The great traveller Ibn Battuta, often referred to as the Arab Marco Polo, visited Kozhikode (then Calicut) at least six times between 1342 and 1347. He was enormously impressed by the wealth of its Muslim merchants: [Any] one of them, he wrote, can purchase the whole freightage of such vessels that put in here. That was nearly seven centuries ago, when Calicut was at the peak of its fame as a mighty seaport. Arabs and Chinese met here in medieval trade, exchanging spices, coir and timber. In 1498, Vasco da Gama too landed here at Kappad Beach, heralding the advent of Portuguese colonisation in India. A small stone monument at Kappad commemorates his landing, but the beach hasn't quite been developed into the major tourist destination one might expect. Though Kozhikode is still the most important city in northern Malabar, don't expect to see the bustle of trade that brought adventurers like Vasco here.
There is, however, much to see and do in this city of friendly folk. As for its name, it derives from the words koyil (palace) and kotta (fort). The city was once surrounded by the fort built by the Zamorin, the ruler of Calicut, who encouraged trade with Arab traders by giving special concessions. Though the locals called it Kozhikode, for the Arabs it was Kalikat; for the Chinese, Kalifo; and for Europeans, Calicut. The British then immortalised the name by calling the locally produced cloth calico.
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Where to Eat
Of all the regional cuisines of India, perhaps the mention of the cuisine of the Malabar Coast excites the maximum palates, and for very good reason. Even as Kozhikode's ports contributed the wealth of Kerala spice to the world, Arab, Jewish, Chinese, Portuguese, African and English traders who bought the spice left their own indelible influences on Kerala's kitchens. That's why a state as small as Kerala is home to an astounding variety of cuisine, from pure vegetarian Namboodiri to Syrian Christian and Jewish to Mappila.
There are hundreds of eateries all over Kozhikode that serve delectable Kerala cuisine. The following is just a sample of a few of the bigger establishments in the city. To get the best eating-out experience in Kozhikode, and indeed any city or town in Kerala, there's nothing like setting off on your own culinary tour. Dive into the fancier establishments, but as much into those that are no more than huts made of palm fronds offering meels and the delectable pazham puli. Try the chicken biryani and mutton fry at Komal Restaurant (Tel: 0495-2701338) on Kallai Road. Beef lovers should try the curry at Rangoon Hotel (Tel: 2704271) on KP Kesava Menon Road. Roof Garden Restaurant (Tel: 2702021) near the station does a fantastic ghee roast dosa and parotta. And then there are the hotels. The Taj Residency has a multi-cuisine restaurant. Hotel Maharani has an air-conditioned restaurant that offers varied cuisine, plus a bar. The Hyson Heritage has a 24-hr coffee shop. Alakapuri Guest House has a restaurant that offers South and North Indian food. The KTDC's Malabar Mansion has a beer parlour and Kallai Restaurant. The basic cuisine here is Malabari, but the speciality of the house is gobi manchurian. Delma Tourist Home offers North Indian and Chinese cuisine. The Calicut Tower offers Malabari seafood specialities at its MAS Restaurant. They also offer Indian and Chinese food. Do also stop by for a cuppa at India Coffee House (Tel: 2723298) on Mavoor Road. Apart from coffee and tea, they have the typical light snacks like finger chips that made coffee houses justly famous. |
Content Source:
Outlook Traveller
Contributed by:
KG Kumar
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