Hawker food in KL is varied, cheap and generally delicious. In the Golden Triangle area the best outdoor hawker centre is BB Park, where a mouthwatering array of stalls sell just about everything from tandoori to Western grills and satay.

There's a fantastic choice on busy Jln Alor, which is lined with some of the best Chinese hawker stalls and restaurants in KL. Locals complain that the prices are on the high side, but it's still great value. Most stalls open around in the early evenin

at the southern end of the street, famed for its seriously addictive chicken wings, and 1 + 1 at No 21A, which is open 24 hours and does good dim sum. Opposite is the frog porridge stall; a bowl costs

Consistently good food is delivered at this Bangsar stalwart, where Asian favourites such as laksa mix it up with more European fare. After your meal move on to the ultra-smooth Bar Upstairs for a cigar and a cognac. There are four locations, including

Resisting the passage of time, the Coliseum still enjoys a great reputation for its sizzling steaks, but it's just worth coming here to experience the crusty colonial-era ambience. You can take in a drink at the bar, which closes well before midnight.<

This is an excellent restaurant for North and South Indian cuisine. The thalis (mixed platters of rice, curry, soup and bread) are always a favourite, the chicken tikka is chunky and plentiful; there's a range of vegetarian options, including cr

This colossal complex is indeed mega and probably the best one-stop shopping, dining and entertainment experience in KL. There are 300 stores, an 18-screen cinema, a bowling alley, Carrefour hypermarket and a huge food court. The new KL Komuter Mid-Val

The crowded Central Market is housed in a cavernous Art Deco building. It's easy to spend an hour or more wandering around the various craft outlets, which sell souvenirs, clothes and jewellery, Asian artefacts and antiques. They can be overpriced for

A highlight of this large handicrafts complex, which stocks a large variety of locally produced batiks, carved wooden artefacts, pewter utensils, woven baskets, furniture, glassware and ceramics is a chance to meet craftsmen and artists in the surround

The complex also has a small museum and offers batik-making courses.

The Main Post Office is across the river from the Central Market. Poste restante is at the information desk on the 2nd floor. Packaging is available for reasonable rates at the post office store.

Useful post offices around town include the one on the third floor of Sungei Wang, the basement branch in Suria KLCC, and on Jln TAR near the crossing with Jln Sultan Ismail.

One of many branches, it includes an ATM.

Housed in a mansion built in 1935 for rubber and tin tycoon Eu Tong Seng, and almost a tourist attraction in its own right, this is KL's most useful tourist office; they host good cultural performances.

With its famous old planters cafe and bar downstairs, the Coliseum has a potent sense of colonial history. Rooms are huge and quiet, albeit without bathrooms (some rooms have sinks), and come with ancient electric switches, tables and chairs, high ceil

Is this the Wild Wild East? The dark wood saloon doors take you through to a dusty bar that hasn't changed since the hotel opened in 1921 (it seems the staff haven't changed since then either). Upstairs, the hotel's spacious rooms retain the inadverten

Right in the heart of Chinatown is the comfortable Swiss-Inn, catering to European and Japanese tourists. On the side of the hotel that fronts busy Jln Petaling, there is an outdoor coffee shop with set menus, high teas and evening steamboat meals.

The Swiss-Inn has become a favourite for those who want to be in the thick of KL's Chinatown bargain bustle, but not at the expense of their creature comforts. While the rooms are set back enough from the Chinatown clamour, the ground-floor buffet rest

Set in a gorgeous old colonial building richly decorated with original features and ethnic chic (rattan furniture, woven rugs, coloured blinds), Le Village is a comfortable and easy-going establishment.

It may be cheap, but this budget option has character in spades. The dark (but by no means dingy) communal room has local artwork on the walls, Ottoman rugs underfoot, original pillars upright and planter pots swaying in the breeze of the fan (as does

The extraordinary decor of this eye-catching place brings to mind the Mad Hatter's tea party - lampshade stands made from piles of crockery and clashing fabric-covered seating. A great place for your own tea party - but head back again in the evening

The Roof is a popular destination, one of the large number of bars crowded into the Bangsar area south of the city centre. Three storeys high, with wrought-iron balconies, this is a great place for people-watching while drinking imported wine and nibbl

A classical concert pianist runs this small but chic bar and live music venue - the stage is hidden behind the curtain to the rear; when concerts are held (usually Fri & Sat nights) there's a cover charge. Japanese-style nibbles accompany the drink

Home of the Malaysian Philharmonic Orchestra, this state-of-the-art venue is music to the eyes and the ears. Come here to dip into some classical music, some international jazz or some traditional Malaysian sounds.

This relaxed gay bar offers up a range of different theme nights from retro tracks on Wednesday to Sunday's all-night happy hour. Catch the breeze on their spacious balcony overlooking the Klang River. On Saturday night they open up the 2nd floor disco

Set in a grove of palm trees, the Masjid Jamek is KL's most delightful mosque. Built in 1907, the mosque is a tranquil creation of onion domes and minarets of layered pink and cream bricks; it looks its best at sunset. Dress appropriately (covered limb

Designed by the British architect AB Hubbock, who sought inspiration from Moghul mosques in India, it can be found at the confluence of the Klang and Gombak rivers - where KL's founders first set foot and where supplies for the tin mines were shipped.

This spacious, dazzlingly white building incorporates several domes and other Islamic architectural features. The extensive collections are well labelled. On the 3rd level are scale models of the world's most famous mosques and a full-scale reconstruct

At the western edge of the Golden Triangle area is the impressive Menara Kuala Lumpur (KL Tower), one of the tallest telecommunications towers in the world. For a price, and after a security check, visitors can ride the lift to the viewing deck and che

The National Art Gallery has a permanent collection of work by contemporary Malaysian artists, and rotating exhibitions of Asian and international art, including photography. The gallery also conducts symposiums and art classes for kids.

Fronted by a marvellous gate-tower, the Sri Mahamariamman Temple is KL's principal Hindu temple, a large and ornate South-Indian Hindu shrine dating to 1873. Vibrantly colourful, the temple houses a large silver chariot that is taken out and paraded to

These 92-hectare manicured gardens lie west of Merdeka Square and were once home to the ranking British official. There's plenty to keep you amused, including a butterfly park, planetarium, insect museum, walk-in aviary, orchid garden and hibiscus gard

Rising 451.9m (1482ft) above KL, the 88-storey Petronas Towers - currently the world's second tallest building - was completed in 1998 at a cost of $US1.9 billion. The towers' floor plan is based on an eight-sided star that echoes the arabesque pattern

Ride the lift to the 41st-floor Skybridge connecting the two towers for a decent view. There is a set quota of visitors allowed per day, so get here by

The multi-layered and highly ornate Thean Hou Temple is one of the most visually impressive in Malaysia. It's dedicated to the Heavenly Mother, Thean Hou. Her statue takes centre stage in the main hall, with Guanyin (the Buddhist Goddess of Mercy) on h

Statues of Milefo (the laughing Buddha), Weituo and Guandi further contribute to this Taoist/Buddhist hodgepodge.

There are great views from the temple's upper decks, while at its base are tourist restaurants and shops.