The hilly eastern gateway to Wayanad takes its name from Tipu Sultan, who cleared the 14th century Jain temple of its idols to make room for an ammunition dump. Today, Sulthan Bathery is a solid base to explore the eastern parts of Wayanad such as Muthanga and Edakkal. The Jain temple, located on the main road next to Vimal Jyothi Women's Hostel, is in an excellent state of preservation, barring the missing deity. The legendary taxidermist Kruger Van Ingen never got along with his son-in-law so out of love for his daughter, he built a beautiful sprawling bungalow, but not surprisingly, in a remote corner of Wayanad. After changing many hands, the plantation passed on to Victor and Ranjini Dey, who remodelled the bungalow, added a swimming pool and converted a 400-acre coffee estate into the mother of all home-stays? Tranquil Plantation Hideaway (Tel: 04936-222358; Tariff: Rs 4,000-5,500), located in Kolagappara Estate near Sulthan Bathery. For those who want privacy, there's an isolated honeymoon room with its own private garden. The Deys have also marked out 9 walks in the plantation; the more exciting ones being Indiana Jones (a walk through coffee and bamboo clumps past rocky outcrops), Cliffhanger (steep hike to Kuppamudi Peak) and Terminator (a steep downhill trudge).

Wayanad is home to some of Kerala's most disadvantaged populations the tribal adivasis, eking out a living as hunters and food gatherers. The Wayanad Sanctuary is also called Muthanga, set up in 1973 and part of the Nilgiri Biosphere Reserve, contiguous with the Nagarhole and Bandipur forests in Karnataka and the Mudumalai Reserve in Tamil Nadu. Though there is elementary dormitory-style accommodation at Muthanga, it's better to stay at Sulthan Bathery and best to visit from Vythiri. Contact the Muthanga Wildlife Warden (Tel: 04936-270177) to stay here. Many visitors just hire a jeep from Sulthan Bathery and drive up to the outskirts of the sanctuary for a tour of the periphery, conducted by a guide. The entrance to Muthanga is 15 km from Sulthan Bathery, towards Mysore. No prior permission is required to visit the park. Expect to pay Rs 10 for a 4wD vehicle pass, Rs 25 for a Tempo Traveller or bus and Rs 50 for the guide. Entry fee Indians Rs 5, foreigners Rs 25; Timings 7-8.30 am, 3.30-5.30 pm.