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Lansdowne
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(Uttarakhand)


Garhwali Fairy Tale

Tiny Lansdowne is one of the quietest hill stations in India. So quiet and so hidden that you know you've reached only when you actually turn past the gates of the elegant Garhwal Rifles Cantonment. And the town is as picturesque as you were led to hope for by the drive up from Kotdwar past a mountain stream (the lost river Khoh) so clear you can see the pebbles on its bed from far up the mountainside.
Back in the Raj, Lansdowne was one of the popular hill stations, where the Sahibs, mostly from the Army, galloped across the ridge that overlooked a sprawling valley and the Greater Himalayas, or drove to the Church on the hill (the popular Tiffin Top) every Sunday in their horse-drawn carriages. The town itself is named after Sir Henry Charles Keith.
Petty-Fitzmau rice, 5th Marquess of Lansdowne, 6th Earl of Kerry and Viceroy of India from 1888 to 1894. Shaded, winding roads are still lined with colonial bungalows, some in a state of disrepair, some steadfastly retaining their charm with ornate gates and window sills hidden behind blanketing bougainvillea.
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Kanvashram: Even a Sage was Tempted
In the wake of the monsoons, the Malini, wearing her new robes of freshly dislodged red earth, rushes down her valley as one who has to make up for lost time. Kanvashram has decked itself out in lush green to welcome her, so it takes little imagination to understand how Sage Vishwamitra was so artfully seduced here by the apsara, Menaka. Shakuntala, the fruit of their union, was left in the care of Kanva Rishi at his ashram. Hindu mythology holds that Shakuntala and the King of Hastinapur in turn bore a son here called Bharat, who gave his name to this country.
Kanvashram bears this illustrious history on its tiny shoulders with nonchalance and effusive post-rain tropical greenery that belies even its modest height. The road up marks Kotdwar as the limit of Uttaranchal?s grot. You are upon Kanvashram, 14 km away from Kotdwar, before you even know you've passed Kalalghati.
This hamlet actually offers far more to see and do than is visible at first sight. The obvious nature walks among sweet-smelling bushes with sassy yellow butterflies and coy glittering lizards, is tops on the select list. Walk down for a picnic to the Malini Barrage, barely a kilometre from the Tourist Rest House, or if you?re adventurous, try the longer walk to Sahasradhara Falls. This hour-long walk is precarious towards the end, after you cross the bridge. Avoid during or just after the rains. It is said that the falls initially ran milk during the time that Shakuntala and Bharat lived here. With the passage of time and corruption of mankind, this changed to curds and finally, water.
Gurukul, again across the river, is a traditional school for boys that also provides massages, yoga courses, ayurvedic medicines, et al. It is also possible to stay here. Else, try the GMVN Tourist Rest House, if you?re brave.
Content Source: 
Outlook Traveller
Contributed by: 
Wilson John
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