One of the finest art museums in the US, this high-brow treasure-trove presents fabulous art, sculpture and photographs from around the world and through the ages. Highlights include works by Rembrandt and Cézanne, glazed pottery from China and Iran, and netsuke (miniature sculptures) from Japan.

Regular arthouse film screenings, lectures, and free jazz concerts on Friday nights round out the programme.

Universal Studios is the world's largest movie studio. Its famous theme park, one of LA's top attractions, has gut-wrenching rides, mind-blowing special-effects shows and the Studio Tour, a part-educational, part-thrill ride exploration of the studio backlot.

Adjacent to the park, Universal City Walk is a fantasy promenade of shops, restaurants, movie theatres and nightclubs. It's best after dark when vibrant neon signs transform it into a miniature Las Vegas strip.

An infinity symbol marks the gateway to the graves of over 300 Hollywood legends, including directors Cecil B DeMille and John Huston. Rudolph Valentino is in the Cathedral Mausoleum, while Jayne Mansfield, who lost her head in a car accident, has a lakeside cenotaph. Bugsy Siegel lies in the Jewish section, called the Beth Olam Memorial Park.

Ongoing excavation of La Brea's oozing asphalt pits has so far yielded over a million fossilised skeleton parts, many of which are mounted inside the adjacent Page Museum. Everyone from kids to science geeks love watching palaeontologists examine the remains of 40,000-year-old dire wolves, prehistoric camels and sabre-toothed tigers.

Toting your own picnic basket under starry skies is still magic. Bob Dylan, the Beatles and Igor Stravinsky have played in this historical amphitheatre. Get a sneak preview of the show: morning rehearsals are free. The Hollywood Bowl Museum has footage of historic performances, live recordings and memorabilia.

Any one hooked on the mythology of the prairie will hit pay-dirt at this delighful museum. Its 10 galleries skillfully combine scholarship and showmanship to reveal how the West was 'discovered' again and again, by everyone from prehistoric tribes to gold diggers. Yeehar!

Contrary to popular belief, LA does have an intellectual, refined side. The Getty Center combines paintings, photography, decorative arts and other collections in a spectacular hilltop space overlooking the Santa Monica Mountains, the Pacific Ocean and the entire city. Admission is free, making this one of the best bargains in town.

Enjoy a stellar art collection (Renaissance to David Hockney), the fabulous architecture of Richard Meier, and the superb - and seasonally changing - gardens designed by Robert Irwin. On clear days, you can add breathtaking views of the city and ocean to the list.

The sprawling complex unites the art collections of oil magnate J Paul Getty (1892-1976) with several research, education and conservation institutes. Four pavilions house the permanent collection, while a fifth presents changing exhibitions. The collections span paintings, sculptures, illuminated manuscripts, photographs, drawings, furniture and a spectacular collection of decorative arts. The paintings collection is strongest when it comes to pre-20th-century Europeans. Must-sees include Van Gogh's Irises, Claude Monet's Wheatstacks, Rembrandt's The Abduction of Europa and Titian's Venus & Adonis.

Billed as the happiest place on earth, Disneyland is a masterpiece of picture-perfect choreography - even the litter bins are themed. The park is divided into seven different lands: Adventureland, Frontierland, Fantasyland, Tomorrowland, New Orleans Square, Mickey's Toontown and Critter Country. High-sugar fun.

If you've got the taste, but not the budget, for classic and hip designer outfits, make a beeline to this warehouse-sized store stocked with gently worn clothing and accessories. Quality is top-notch, the selection huge and prices surprisingly moderate.

This mini-warehouse is filled with wacky collectibles and feels somewhat like a movie studio prop room (quite possibly the source of the bric-a-brac) verging on a curio shop. Depression-era radios, a roulette wheel, pool tables, a bear skeleton or life-size plastic penguins - you never know what you'll find. Just don't feed it before midnight.

Fashionistas like Cameron Diaz and Madonna have been spotted trying on eclectic urban wear at this multi-boutique hall of fame. Staff are less concerned about cool than your fellow customers are. Shop for hard-to-find clothing, cosmetics and shoe designs here or at their Santa Monica location - and bring a fat wallet.

Featured on the cover of the Eagles' Hotel California album, the Beverly Hills Hotel is as revered in LA as the countless Hollywood legends who have cavorted here (and still do). The ambience at this hotel defines opulence and is infused with historical charm.

Affectionately known as the 'Pink Palace', this swank hotel has served as unofficial hobnobbing headquarters of the power elite since 1912. In the early 1990s, the sultan of Brunei took pity on the rapidly ageing palace and pumped millions into her rejuvenation. Today the grand dame has regained her blush, lurid wink and ability to seduce the power players. Scripts are once read again, and deals cut, by the pool where young starlets stretch languidly in the hopes of 'discovery'. Most rooms have a European air, while some suites come with a wood-burning fireplaces or private butler upon request. Garden bungalows are made ready for love to bloom among the bougainvillea. Guests can take advantage of finely tuned service, complimentary limo rides to Beverly Hills restaurants and a Wimbledon champion tennis coach.

Active families who need room to move will love these apartment-sized suites with full kitchens and extra sofa beds. A small pool and nearby fitness gym go a long way toward making up for the generic decor and lots of noise.

The looks of this place may be hopelessly stuck in the disco decade, but who's to complain if a moderate tariff buys you a large suite with kitchen and a supercentral location? It's a great choice for anyone in need of plenty of extra space. If you're sensitive to early-morning noise or really need air-con instead of just throwing open the windows to the sea breezes, look elsewhere. Although the suites may look tired inside, they're clean and the residential neighbourhood is safe, with leafy sidewalks. It's only a quick stroll to the beach, and the hotel's heated pool comes in handy if the ocean's too cold for a swim. Other perks for guests are free parking and self-service laundry.

Handily located near West Hollywood nightlife and restaurants, yet hidden on a quiet, residential street, this all-suite property scores high on the hipness scale. It's outfitted with almost everything you'll need for a pleasure-filled stay, boys.

Part of the dynamic Kor Hotel Group that runs the Avalon Hotel and Maison 140 in Beverly Hills and Santa Monica's Viceroy, this WeHo outpost doesn't yet measure up to the skyhigh standards of its sister properties. But it raises the bar for West Hollywood, where other motels, hotels and inns are considerably run-down and worse value. The rooftop pool makes for a nice post-sightseeing hangout, where you can lie back on a couch and look at the stars. Don't despair after seeing the hallways, which are lamentably narrow and dark, since each plush, sunlit studio room has a private balcony and fireplace, as well as a flat-screen TV and CD/DVD player; bi-level suites have sunken living rooms. The nearby Trader Joe's supermarket comes in handy if you're in a kitchen unit. Secure underground parking is a plus, and the concierge services are ace.

This low-cost, alternative health clinic provides services such as acupuncture, Chinese medicine, massage therapy and herbal therapy.

This is the headquarters of the AASC, although there are numerous other offices throughout LA. A subdivision of the American Automobile Association, AAA provides its members and those of affiliated foreign clubs with information, maps, books, car insurance and most importantly, free emergency road services and towing.

This historic live-music club used to be at the forefront of the Sunset Strip scene, and still pulls in respectable crowds with a roster heavy on up-and-coming local bands, mostly of the hard-rock persuasion. Jim Morrison and the Doors were discovered here, and so was (as the name suggests) go-go dancing.

This bastion of indie bands isn't as out there as its New York City mother club, but it welcomes patrons of all ages and offers up top-notch world music, progressive jazz and other alternative sounds. Headliners take the main stage, the rest make do with the intimate (and often free) AlterKnit Lounge.

The Chicago vibe at this swank, beachside blues joint is very convincing. Harvelle's has been packing in the crowds since it opened in 1931, and while there are no recognisable big-name acts, it's quality all the way at Harvelle's.

Like a faded starlet, the Formosa has all the irresistibly gritty charm of Hollywood history. The dimly lit walls are an autographed gallery of Hollywood icons who have dined here, most famously Bogart, Monroe and Gable. Skip the distinctly average Chinese menu, and move straight to the suitably strong mai tais.

This hip Art Deco club used to be the Melody Room, frequented by gangster Bugsy Siegel, and retains the style of that era. Infamously, it was once owned by Johnny Depp and is the spot where River Phoenix overdosed on Halloween night, 1993. The door policy is tough and drinks are pricey, but once inside chances of spotting a celeb are pretty good.

Long Beach has a strong community of Cambodians, and one of the best culinary manifestations is New Paradise. It's also wedding reception central, so if you come on a weekend, expect a party. Wedding or not, there's live music every Friday night and during the day on the weekend. There's not a dud on the menu, but the beef sticks are tremendous.

Canter's isn't really about the food, though it covers the Jewish deli basics decently, gets high marks for its waffles and even serves full Thanksgiving dinners nightly. It ain't about the service either, which is indifferent on a good day. And it's not about sophistication - they serve Coor's on tap. But it's an LA institution and it's open All. The. Time.

El Cochinito ('the little pig')is arguably the best Cuban food in the city. This 12-table hole-in-the wall is family run and neighbourhood adored. This is traditional 'pre-Castro' Cuban at its finest. The tostones are thin and crispy and the roasted pork melts in your mouth.

Okay, technically it's a bar - a tiny bar with a stellar lineup of beers at that. But it's also where you'll find the best damn fancy-pants burgers in LA. Juicy patties with caramelised onion, applewood bacon compote, blue and gruyere cheeses and arugula. If you know what's good for you, you won't ask for substitutions or ketchup.

This twenty-five-year-old Venice mainstay has it all: cafe, dining room, bakery and art space. Brunch is atrociously popular thanks to the rave-worthy frittatas and the lovely semi-enclosed patio. There are plans to open for dinner sometime in 2007, which will no doubt be a hit. Be warned, there are no reservations taken on weekends.