The flat, grassy plains of the hauts plateaux near Ranohira are abruptly broken by towering sandstone massifs sculpted by wind and water into gorges and craggy bluffs. It's one of the country's most spectacular regions, perfect for overnight hikes, rock-hopping along cool canyons and spotting lemurs.

It's best to visit during the cooler months (April to October), when the bizarre pachypodiums and periwinkles are in flower on the rock faces and walking is more comfortable. The Sakalava people used to bury their dead in caves high up on cliff faces and some areas are fady (taboo) even today.

Official guides are compulsory for visits to the park and fees depend on the length of each trek. All trails start and finish in Ranohira, and range from one to seven days in length. All arrangements and permits can be dealt with at the Angap office in Ranohira.

Two popular short trips are a day walk to Canyon des Singes & Piscine Naturelle, where you can take a plunge in the cool water; and Natural Window, a short way off the highway. Here you can watch the sun rise or set through a large, square hole in the rock, although at times it gets crowded.

Parc National de Ranomafana is 41,500 hectares (102,549 acres) of lush rainforest, riddled with small streams that plummet into the Namorona River, and teeming with 12 lemur species, including red-bellied lemurs and broad-nosed gentle lemurs.

The park entrance and Angap office are at Ambodiamontana village. Permits are compulsory and are available at the Angap office.

Guided walks range from two to four hours, try a nocturnal walk for the chance to spot the fanaloka, or Malagasy civet, and the dainty brown mouse lemur.

Most travellers visit the quiet coastal area of Ifaty, featuring the villages of Ifaty, Mangilly and Mandio Rano, or sit under a palm tree on a white sandy beach. With coral reefs just offshore, sea breezes whispering in the casuarina trees and a relaxed tropical ambience, who can blame them?

There's whale-watching in July and August, and the amazing spiny forest along the road just north of Mangilly is well worth a look.