The wonderful gardens of El Retiro are as enjoyable as any you'll find in a European city. Littered with marble monuments, landscaped lawns, the occasional elegant building and abundant greenery, it's quiet and contemplative during the week, but is tra

The artificial lake at the park's centre is watched over by Alfonso XII's massive mausoleum and the sphinx-laden Egyptian Fountain. The park has a particularly beautiful rose garden, La Rosaleda, and a somewhat sinister statue of El Ángel Caí

Named after Madrid's patron saint, this is where you can see archaeological finds from old Madrid, including mosaic fragments from the Roman villa in Carabanchel (now a southern suburb). The building also has a 16th-century courtyard, a 17th-century ch

Converted in 1819 from a natural history museum to a repository of Spanish art held in royal collections, the Museo del Prado hosts over 7000 works. The strongest collections are the 17th- and 18th-century Spanish paintings featuring the likes of Vel&#

Welcome to one of the best and most important art galleries anywhere in the world. The more than 7000 paintings held in the Museo del Prado's collection (although less than half are currently on display) are like a window on the historical vagaries of

This Italianate Baroque colossus of some 2800 rooms was begun by Felipe V following the destruction by fire of its forerunner, the Alcázar, in 1734. Around 50 rooms are open to visitors, including one taken up by the Farmacia Real, a seemingly end

Founded by royal decree in 1867, this is one mother of a royal collection, with goodies from prehistory, Ancient Egypt, Greece, Rome and Mudéjar Spain. Keep an eye out for the sarcophagus of Amemenhat (Room 13), the Lady of Elche (20), Recesvinto'

Madrid's imperial heart beats loudest at Plaza Mayor, the town square designed in 1619 by Juan Gómez de Mora. Popular as a site for autos-da-fe (the ritual condemnation of heretics, often followed by burning at the stake), it is now given o

The crowded Sunday flea market was, back in the 17th and 18th centuries, largely dedicated to a meat market (the word rastro, which means stain, referred to the trail of blood left behind by animals dragged down the hill). On Sunday mornings, th

Shoppers beware: the market is crawling with would-be pickpockets, so keep a tight hold on your belongings and don't keep valuables in easy-to-reach pockets.

Adapted from the shell of an 18th-century hospital, this museum houses the best Madrid has to offer in modern Spanish art, principally spanning the 20th century up to the 1980s. For most, the big attraction is Picasso's Guernica, but there is pl

An elegant palace converted into one of the most popular dance clubs in Madrid, this is the kind of place where you're guaranteed to meet the locals, whether you want to or not. The crowd can be pretty young and boisterous and the queues long. Thursday

The founder of this Madrid landmark is said to have invented more than a hundred cocktails, which the likes of Hemingway and Ava Gardner enjoyed at one time or another. It's still frequented by film stars and socialites and is at its best after midnigh

This unpretentious wine bar is one of the best-known in town and as fashions come and go elsewhere, the classic decor and friendly service has fostered a loyal following of regulars. You can order by the glass or by the bottle.

You'd be mad not to at least pass by this fine little bar with its love of all things Cuban, from the music to the clientele and the Caribbean cocktails. Not surprisingly, the mojitos are a cut above the average and the streetside tables put you

This Art Deco bar is a great spot for an early-evening drink and, if you're clever, you'll stay until

A handy central police station where they may have an officer who at least speaks English.

Always wanted to be a torero (bullfighter) but just didn't have a thing to wear? This is where Madrid's toreros come to have their traje de luces (suit of lights, the traditional glittering bullfighting suit) made in all their intricate e

Spanish fashion is not all haute couture and this world-famous cool and quirky shoe brand from Mallorca has shops all over Madrid. The designs are bowling-shoe chic with colourful, fun designs that are all about comfort. The Camper range is vast

How can you come to Spain and not dive into a little flamenco? This temple to flamenco has it all, from guitars, albums, polka-dotted dancing costumes, shoes, the works. The helpful staff can point you in the direction of Madrid's best tablaos (

This beautiful hotel is set on a picturesque plaza and offers simple luxury in rooms that bear the traces of restrained elegance from bygone years. Although the building has had many manifestations, its first was as the 19th-century US embassy in Madri

Rooms are large and sunny, with thick red carpet and enormous beds. Comfort is also a priority with wonderfully soft mattresses that you'll sink into and never want to leave. Subtle antique furniture - writing desk, chests of drawers and bedside tables

Sleep like a king in one of Madrid's old classics, this hotel with elegant suites was the former palace of the Duque de Lerma. The magnificent building which is highlighted by an enormous stained glass dome, has long been considered a centre of Spanish

If you like your hotels to be former palaces, this could be the place for you. The public areas of the hotel are exquisite - a discreetly beautiful palm-filled, light-drenched patio of sandstone and a sweeping staircase guarded by marble lions are the

Although the rooms are something of a minor disappointment after the grandeur of the entrance, they are nonetheless bearers of rustic chic, with a simple, warm colour scheme, hardwood floors and balconies in every room; those that look down onto the in

This Madrid landmark (since 1839) is an elegant treasure-trove of deli items that's ideal for those planning a gourmet tapas dinner party. You can sit down to full meals too and the specialities are Madrid dishes such as callos (tripe) and co

En route to or from the bullring, consider this innovative Galician restaurant where the decor is white and fishy and the food dominated by seafood as is the Galicians' wont. The salpicón de centollo (salad of spider crab) is superb and the

Where many restaurants serving authentic regional Spanish cooking go for dark and traditional decor, this fine Navarran restaurant has a subtly modern aesthetic to accompany its excellent menu - the chuletón (basically a huge juicy chop) fo

Film-maker Pedro Almodóvar finds this bar and restaurant in the traditional Madrid style to be the best anti-depressant. Forget about the sit-down restaurant and just jam into the bar, order a few raciónes off the menu, slosh th

Something of an icon, The Trout is one of Madrid's great tapas bars. Pull up to the bar and choose from the long list of delicious snacks, or allow the friendly staff to choose for you. There are tables if you feel like a full sit-down meal, alt