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Travel Guide » Asia » Margao/Madgaon
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Margao
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(Goa)


The Athens of the East

Go South, they said, and here's why you should listen to them. As you drive down NH17 from Panjim and onto the bridge on the Zuari River for all purposes the border between North and South Goa breathtaking views of what lies ahead begin to unfold. To your right, on the south bank of the Zuari Estuary, cargo ships snake their way to Vasco da Gama, Goa's harbour. But apart from savouring the views of the Zuari from the heights of the Zuari Bridge, Mormugao and Vasco can safely be left off your weekend itinerary. The real jewels of southern Goa lie in the rich green fields stretching to the horizon on the east bank of the gracious river. Hidden amidst the betel, pepper and spice plantations are the sensuous temples of Ponda, the heartland of Hindu Goa.

Straight down NH17 lies Margao, the culture capital of Goa in Salcette taluka, the heart of Catholic Goa. Its shaded streets lined with grand colonial mansions, its bazaars full of the rich produce of Goa with buys not found anywhere else, Margao is a perfect base from which to venture forth into rural Salcette's untouched villages.

Breakfast at Longuinho's, lunch at Nostalgia, dinner by the sea at a shack on Colva Beach. That's a day perfectly spent in Margao, where Goa is like it used to be, without the hashish and the hoopla.
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Grand Houses of Salcette
One of the factors that gives Goa its unique identity is its Indo-Portuguese architecture. The best examples of this fusion are in the south, where you stumble upon magnificent mansions nestled amidst sprawling rice fields and dense mango groves of Salcette.

Red-tiled roofs, ornate verandahs with trellised railings, large flower gardens leading up to winding staircases which brings you to that unique piece of Goan architecture the balcao. Gathering place for the family in the evenings, this verandah is usually covered by a conical turret, which gives the faade of the building a dramatic look.

The interior comprises enormous halls, once the scene of many balls and banquets, a prayer hall with an ornate altar, winding corridors and a courtyard in the centre. Called the patro, the courtyard is Hindu Goa's influence in a residence which is otherwise Iberian.

These houses also boast of a French influence. The gilt mirrors and chandeliers are all part of the French culture which played an important role in the life of the rich and famous of Goan society. A fine example is the Silver Mansion in Margao. Its turrets are very similar to those of the Louvre Museum in Paris, and the staircase is a modest replica of the grand staircase of the Palace of Versailles.

Situated around the main church square is the Largo da Igreja, one of the most beautiful squares in Goa, with elegant edifices representative of typical 18th century Goan style architecture. These include the residences of the Alvares and their neighbours, the Colacos. The most dramatic house in South Goa is undoubtedly the Menezes Braganca house in the village of Chandor, open to the public, especially if you ask politely.

The nearby village of Loutolim boasts of several 18th century constructions, much as the Miranda Mansion (with their family crest adorning the doorway). The imposing Figueiredo House is one of the most attractive in the village.

Many large and beautiful houses spread out in a radius of about 1 km from the nucleus of the village. The Costa Mansion is now lovingly cared for by a solitary lady, the charming Dona Rosa.

It is very sad indeed that some of these elegant edifices are in a very dilapidated condition. Some of these are almost in ruins, overrun with creepers and wild grass with the residents having immigrated to Brazil and Portugal in search of greener pastures, leaving their palatial homes at the mercy of bugs, termites and thieves.
Content Source: 
Outlook Traveller
Contributed by: 
Lesley A Esteves
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