A true Melbourne institution for as long as anyone can remember, the Espy has free live bands almost nightly and on Sunday afternoon. It's also a great place to sit back with a beer and watch the sun set over the pier, or have a meal upstairs at the revamped Espy Kitchen with its views across the bay. Make the pilgrimage at least once.

Located in a laneway off a laneway, the lab-themed Croft is a test of drinkers' determination. Prescribe yourself a beaker of house-distilled vodka in the downstairs laboratory and venture up the rickety stairs to inspect the Departments of Male and Female Hygiene (aka the toilets, complete with hospital beds).

The Gin Palace is the transmutation of a side-alley basement into a sophisticated, dimly lit and beautifully furnished New York-meets-Mittel Europa cocktail bar. One killer martini and you're away and prepared to make this palace your home; brocade, velvet, leopard print and all.

Hidden down a narrow lane off Little Lonsdale St (between Exhibition and Russell Sts), this quintessential dim jazz venue is well worth searching out. It's the jazz joint in Melbourne and most big acts who come to town perform here (even Prince played a secret gig when last in town). Another bonus? It's non-smoking.