Montevideo's port market was the continent's finest when it opened back in 1868, but today it survives on personality and atmosphere, of which it still has plenty. The impressive wrought-iron superstructure houses outstanding seafood restaurants as well as the more traditional parillas (steakhouses) - choose your cut off the grill.

If you like your food meaty, this place will set the drool glands racing. It's open only in the afternoons, and Saturday is a particularly lively and colourful day, with artists, craftspeople and street musicians plying their trade and just hanging out with other Uruguayans. For the thirsty, there is also the Montevideo speciality medio y medio, a popular knockout blend of sparkling and white wines.

Plaza Independencia is at the heart of Montevideo's Ciudad Vieja (Old Town. This broad square, lined with palms is dominated by a huge statue of José Artigas, Uruguay's greatest hero. You can pay your respects to Artigas at his underground tomb beneath the statue.

The Museo Torres García displays the works of Joaquín Torres García (1874-1949), the Uruguayan artist who spent much of his career in France producing abstract and Cubist work, and unusual portraits of figures like Columbus, Mozart and Beethoven. The museum is a fitting tribute to this Modernist pioneer. Entry is free but donations are appreciated.