If time is your enemy and you've got a bit of cash to splash about, consider the occasional internal flight to make the most of this land. Morocco's Office National des Chemins de Fer (ONCF) operates one of the most modern rail and bus systems in Africa, linking most of the main centres. The trains are generally comfortable, fast and a better option than the buses - if only because sleeping cars are available for many overnight trips. Lines go as far south as Marrakesh. But if you miss the train, the buses are by no means a last-ditch option. The bus network is dense and efficient in most areas. Running alongside the bus services are shared taxis. These are the workhorses of the Moroccan road - normally elderly Mercedes vehicles which you'll see belting along the highways or gathered in great flocks near bus stations. Shared taxis are a big feature of Morocco's public transport system and link towns to their nearest neighbours in a kind of 'leapfrogging' system, going from one town to another, en route to a final destination. The fixed-rate fares are higher than bus fares. Renting a car isn't cheap in Morocco, but deals can be struck with the smaller agencies. Petrol (gas) is available pretty much everywhere. There are police checks on most main roads in Morocco but these rarely affect foreigners.

The bigger cities have public bus services. Petits taxis are a common sight in most cities and major towns. They're licensed to carry up to three passengers and can be a useful way to avoid heat exhaustion and/or hustlers.